Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver has been in charge of menswear since 2006 and his confidence is palpable. It is there in his clothes. He consistently applies a technical lens to tailoring; his propositions err on the right side of wild. Autumn/winter 2018 felt directional but realistic – new and old in the same breath.
Best in show: What is the fate of suiting if the generation queuing up outside Supreme on a Thursday lusts after elasticated waist joggers and statement hoodies? Tailoring needs a tweak. Prada showed suits pressed with dye to create a graphic trompe l’œil effect; Thom Browne added down linings to classic grey marl blazers. At Dior Homme, the iconic Bar Jacket was nipped into nineties sportswear proportions. Ossendrjiver spent the season thinking about the legacy of archetypal men’s dress. For A/W18, the suit was front and centre. The most classic English textiles were thrown into a new conversation; suits had narrow waists and strict ironed in pleats. Stripes and checks clashed and matched.
Sound bite: Classic lines from bespoke tailoring were reconfigured. A pinstripe suit jacket had pockets peeled from a classic duffle coat. Trousers were in smart wool with a combat pant attitude with cotton inlay, gusseted pocket and velcro. Giant ski jackets had their sleeves hacked off – jumpers were draped and worn with wide sleeve-shaped scarves. ‘What is a suit? Two pieces, a jacket and trousers, cut from the same fabric. I wanted to deconstruct this idea, using layering,’ Ossendrjiver said. ‘For me, these combinations make a modern suit. I wanted to create a smokescreen.’
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Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
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Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treatUntil December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
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New Revox B77 MK III reel-to-reel tape recorder, and more cassette tape-based trickeryThe new Revox B77 MK III might be the ultimate analogue flex. In response, we’ve explored the outer reaches of cassette tape design
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
