Loewe A/W 2018
Mood board: the collection had less of the jaunty je ne sas quoi than previous seasons and felt more restrained. Creative director Jonathan Anderson drew on archetypal menswear items, reimagined through the artisanal hands of Loewe. A/W 2018’s multi-coloured nappa suede cuffed trouser, navy wool and alpaca shearling patch sweater and quilted bomber are just some of the convincing, covetable full head-to-toe options. Following on from the nomadic theme which last season manifested as a range of jolly sea-bed charms slung from bags and belt loops, we now move inland with nappa hedgehogs and ladybird coin purses to adorn the clothing. The muted palette of browns and oranges evoked the great outdoors.
Finishing touches: you’re only as good as your it-bag. Upon his arrival at the house in 2013, Anderson set about creating his own icon: the cuboid shaped Puzzle bag. It can be worn as a shoulder bag or clutch and folds completely flat. For A/W 2018 the style has been reimagined for the menswear customer and has evolved into a cross body messenger style with lace-up details. Scaled up to XXL, it comes as a roomy backpack.
Team work: Anderson encountered the work of American art photographer Duane Michals while on a visit to Tate. Michals is known for appropriating cinema’s frame-by-frame format in work he first began composing in the late 1960s, after time as a photojournalist and graphic designer. In the 1970s he began writing captions in the margins and later incorporated painting. Anderson invited the 85 year old to collaborate on a series of images of the new collection, which were on display at the brand’s Paris headquarters and will be published as a limited edition volume designed by M/M Paris. Michals photographed the British actor Josh O'Connor as a failed magician, performing in the Teatro Reina Victoria in Madrid. The 67 images evoke the feeling of a surrealist pantomime.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
‘Irving Penn: Centennial’ offers an unparalleled look at the seminal American photographer’s oeuvre
A new retrospective in A Coruña, Spain celebrates the meticulous grandeur of Irving Penn, spanning fashion editorial, still-life, nudes and portraiture across seven decades
By Jack Moss Published
-
Inside Luna Luna: the amusement park designed by artists lands in New York
‘Luna Luna: Forgotten Fantasy’ – featuring rides by Basquiat, Lichtenstein, Hockney, Haring, and Dalí – has opened at The Shed
By Osman Can Yerebakan Published
-
Why champagne pairs beautifully with fine food
Maison Krug unites champagne with decadent cuisine in the latest edition of its ‘Single Ingredient’ adventure, in collaboration with globally renowned Michelin-starred chefs who enhance the flavours and aromas of Krug Grande Cuvée or Krug Rosé
By Melina Keays Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear shows
A Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?
These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion Week
How the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated