Fendi A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men's

Team work: The next phase of the brand’s guest artist series reached heady heights as the season revealed a collaboration with time-honoured ally Karl Largerfeld. In dialogue with Silvia Venturini Fendi, the latest, sharp looks were inspired by Largerfeld’s longstanding relationship to the house. The energetic, logo-ed sportswear that Fendi has been pushing for some seasons was swept away in favour of a more classic, formal tailored line in a palette of blacks and neutrals. It had a glazed patina. A/W 2019 featured collaged prints made up of handwritten notes, images and sketches shared between Largerfeld’s Paris studio and the Fendi offices in Rome. It was seen on silk shirts, trench coats and a bucket hat. Re-illustrated Fendi logos and archival photographs revealed the intimacy and respect between the two icons.

Mood board: ‘Dualism is in the DNA of Fendi, under every form,’ Silvia Venturini Fendi said. And so Lagerfeld’s early sketch of a tailored jacket with half shawl collar and half lapel was here on suiting and longer coats. The mixture of futurism represented by the glossy, sheer materials met with the classicism of the Fendi brown, beige and taupe, peppered with bright red and electric blue accents. A two button grey suit with a black contrast stripe down the arm had a sheer knit underneath; a tuxedo was cut in crisp organza. Knitwear and plongé nappa tops were designed to be re-configured with the pull of a zip.

Finishing touches: Standout were the latest bags and accessories; studded, foldable, from maxi to mini. A collaboration with Japanese luggage and accessories brand Porter resulted in youthful updates on classic Fendi styles. The house’s iconic Baguette bag with its double F metal clasp debuted for men in crocodile and mink. In ultralight, ultra bright nylon, the duality of these brands met in what will surely be the most coveted bag in all of Milan. Slung across the torso, wriggling on the body – it nods to generations of knowhow shared between Fendi and Largerfeld and their unbridled commitment to looking ahead.