Mood board: Husband-and-wife designers Luke and Lucie Meier looked to create balance, pairing sharp tailoring with a softened approach to building a modern wardrobe. The cerebral minimalism of the label’s founder has been through a few hands in the last decade and its current gatekeepers are closer to defining their own epoch. Theirs is a language rooted in utilitarian standards; monochromatic elegance. For A/W 2019 they showed hand-stitched canvas structuring within tailored coats; patchwork silks and knits. A calfskin pair of slim trousers with matching casual cut shirt set the mood. It was icy and cool.
Best in show: The silhouette was narrowed and geometric as is their wont – at OAMC, Luke Meier pushes a workwear narrative in pale colours – at Sander, the line is more flowing. Contemporary menswear takes most of its shape from military designs. The bomber jacket, for example, became standard issue for the U.S. Air Corp in 1931, long before it was a staple piece in men’s wardrobes. The duo gently padded outerwear to give it bounce. The clothes had the hallmarks of functional uniforms but with a modernist metier.
Finishing touches: Uniforms inspired more than just the pockets or button placement on jackets. Accessories borrowed heavily from the accoutrements and insignia worn by army personnel, with sleek leather box bags slung across the body, attached to belts. Elsewhere, trench coats were layered over suiting as if ready for their marching orders. A backpack was knitted into the back of a jumper. Trousers were cuffed.
-
One to Watch: designer Valerie Name infuses contemporary objects and spaces with historical detailFrom vessels to furnishings and interiors, New York- and Athens-based designer Valerie Name finds new relevance for age-old craft techniques
-
Cora Sheibani celebrates unexpected diamond cuts in a new jewellery collectionCora Sheibani's latest collection, ‘Facets and Forms’, marries her love of history and science
-
Meet Kenia Almaraz Murillo, the artist rethinking weavingKenia Almaraz Murillo draws on the new and the traditional in her exhibition 'Andean Cosmovision' at London's Waddington Custot
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022: ‘Fendace' to FerragamoFashion Week returns to form in the Italian home of style and design. Here is everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Jil Sander on the purist principles of her Uniqlo collaborationIn celebration of +J, Wallpaper's quality maniac-at-large Nick Vinson speaks to Jil Sander about her upcoming A/W 2020 collaboration with Uniqlo
-
The aesthetic intimacy of Jil Sander's S/S 2021 collectionCreative directors Lucie and Luke Meier on the ‘purity of image' behind the brand's pared-back spring film, directed by Stephen Kidd
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
