Mood board: On the streets there are always well dressed men over 40, no matter how much the world excites itself over the sudden appearance of actor Timothée Chalamet or a bevvy of instafamous teenagers at the latest fashion show. ‘Older men possess stronger personalities and are cooler than the younger men,’ a statement from Junya Watanabe read. ‘I designed this collection thinking for people of my generation or older.’ A good jean. A bold jacket. A heavy soled shoe. A confident, assured and lived-in look breezed through Watanabe’s A/W 2019 collection. The show opened to the gusty, brassy jazz of James Brown. The soundtrack had an upbeat, gentlemanly oomph.
Best in show: The theme of the show was ‘Silver Swagger’ – Watanabe’s expression for a hip, mature style made up of New Balance trainers, patchworked jeans and smart army surplus coats. Good shirts. They were all worn by a cast of older models with street-savvy panache and played to a wider mood as noticed by Ollie Arnold, style director at Mr Porter. More than ever, the dress codes of different generations are merging. ‘Nostalgia can play a big part and we’re finding that as trends are recycled they’re resonating with older men that may remember it the first time around. I think Watanabe’s show did this. It presented a perfect mix of traditional and modern menswear,’ Arnold said. Levis were cropped and lean with cargo detailing – a hallmark of Watanabe’s. Recognisable staples were cut up and rearranged. Denim jacket sleeves were added to tailored blazers. Double-breasted styles boasted quilted leather biker sleeves. A casual stripe shirt came with a technical hiking jacket back. This was tailoring but remixed; a patchwork of masculine wardrobing.
Team work: Prints and graphics applied to sweatshirts and T-shirts were lifted from American dad iconography. LA-based screenwriter Youthana Yuos supplied the motifs for a pig and chicken shirt. The L’Antica Pizzeria in Milan lent its logo, as did UCLA. Elsewhere, tweed caps continued the partnership with Béton Ciré. Standout was an ivy green down-jacket made in collaboration with Canada Goose.
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Turin’s Museo Egizio gets an OMA makeover for its bicentenaryThe Gallery of the Kings at Turin’s Museo Egizio has been inaugurated after being remodelled by OMA, in collaboration with Andrea Tabocchini Architecture
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Calico Wallpaper founders Nick and Rachel Cope set up studio and home in Upstate New YorkHaving put down firm roots in the Upper Hudson Valley since the pandemic, the Calico Wallpaper duo is developing new collections inspired by this bucolic setting
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Tech editor Jonathan Bell’s round-up of giftable gadgetsTen desirable devices cover all tech bases in our seasonal look at what’s new, novel and best suited for years of service
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
