Mood board: The work that Francesco Risso is doing for Marni feels like a mirror of the times. Its tribal eccentricity chimes with the current mood for a more fluid, polyglot, personal style. In London this spirit is there in the artisanal ambisexuality of Charles Jeffery. The sex of Mowalola Ogunlesi. The modish trompe-l'œil of Stefan Cooke and the unfurled masculinity of Per Götesson. In Milan, the arrival of Risso’s off-beat approach stands out. Away from the formal sartorial codes and well-crafted, purposeful proportions, Marni is a force of fresh, wild abandon. For the coming season, the designer explored the youth of today – the pluralities of their lives, lived through multiple apps and across many cities. This translated into a host of playfully nutty clothes.
Best in show: Allegro Non Troppo – Bruno Bozzetto’s 1976 animated parody of Walt Disney's Fantasia – influenced the clashing sensuality and energy of the season. Colourful, dreamy frames from the film were magnified and printed across the front of wide-collar shirts and crushed silk pyjama tops. Patchwork prints, nubby bouclé coats and moleskin jackets and trousers had bold proportions; they were classic in their relative conservatism.
Finishing touches: Mohair striped sweaters worn as twin-sets, pastel puffa jackets with zip-up sides, misaligned pinstripes, synthetic reptile patterns. Baggy pony skin pants. Foamy neoprene suits. Banana sock boots! Padlocks, mitten flasks and chains. This line taken from the poem presented to showgoers summed up Risso’s foresight: ‘A tangle of neurons, antiphons, emotions/They protest for everything and wear notions./One becomes the other, the other becomes one, nobody is ever alone under the sun.’ It was a carnival of contemporary chic.
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Enter the world of Cave Bureau, and its architectural and geological explorationsNairobi practice Cave Bureau explores architecture’s role in the geological afterlives of colonialism, as part of a team exhibiting at the British pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025
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All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
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Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationshipAnnouncing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
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When Wallpaper* fashion team was part of Marni S/S 2022 showMilan Fashion Week’s Marni S/S 2022 show was an immersive and inclusive celebration that put the audience, Team Wallpaper* among them, at the heart of the action
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
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Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
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Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
