Sunnei A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

Mood board: The boys behind the nascent Milanese brand refer to their work as a project. It is one rooted in a kind of freedom that is, they say: ‘far from seasonal trends and hype’. The hype is here though. A host of young designers working out of cities across the globe are thinking as a network. In a time of social and political revolution, it makes sense to get together and make a louder statement. The subcultures of yesteryear aren’t relevant today – punk might be reinvented but we might not notice. 1990s style clothes are being re-done but they are often a facsimile of a time that never even existed. However, that universal youthful need to dress up and be seen as part of something that is just as strong today. It is just more coded, less about a direct political message or a musical movement. Today styles are downloaded fast. Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo are nurturing a slow, smart approach to this concept of collective dressing. The audience was filled with Sunnei boys and girls with wide-leg pants, clean plimsolls and cocooning outwear. They were part of a club.

Best in show: The autumn/winter 2019 collection looked to the idea of realities. The reality of opening their solo flagship – Spazio Sunnei – on via Vincenzo Vela 8 with their first collection in 2015. Their growing e-commerce business. The connection that Messina and Rizzo have with their fan base. The world today. The duo’s clothes have a simplicity that is far from empty. There is a youthful sophistication, a cockiness to their familial style. Silhouettes clashed from roomy to tight; tulle, chenille and gabardine ushered in a comfy, cool sensibility.

Sound bite: Standout was a fluid trouser, worn with padded bomber and zip-up sports jacket underneath, all in the same fine wool. It is the new three-piece. ‘Actually we started from looking at the typical Italian accounting guy, but then of course reinvented in our way,’ the designers said backstage. ‘Usually we are surrounded by people who inspire us but this season found some drawings and sketches we did when we were 13. So we started with ourselves.’