Chalayan A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Men’s

Mood board: At the very moment bushfires are ravaging New South Wales, Chalayan presented a collection inspired by the environment. In particular, he spent the season exploring how it may shape our worldview and dress, researching the animist belief system of Indigenous Australians who create ‘songlines’. Walking across the land, they turn their tracks into music. ‘I liked the idea of looking at my own path and how I could re-punctuate that in an urban setting,’ he said. The collection explored humanity’s connection to the land. The Orient and their rituals around the seasons inspired the cuts of the clothes and a singular graphic print.
Best in show: As a self-confessed ‘process based designer’, Chalayan is happiest when research allows him to revisit and revive ongoing themes. In 1998 he staged one of his most political shows, exploring the chador and the parameters of Islamic women's dress around the body – the models wore metallic rectangles around their faces. Much in the same way for his A/W 2020 menswear, the silhouette considered the body a frame. A tailored coat pulled its lapel from the inside; trousers had a warped drape. Shirting bibs cascaded down the shoulders. ‘The framing is the actuality of the body, which started in that show,’ he said. ‘After 25 years, I have these reoccurring ideas that I like working on. I like to develop them and reemphasise them to remind myself.’
Sound bite: Much of Chalayan’s offering twists and blends archetypes into singular garments that cannot be categorised. A waistcoat is fitted into a bomber. A tailored single-pleat trouser falls into a trackpant; capes morph into coveralls. The interrupted seams of trousers flute out; a new lapel arrives from underneath another. He says,‘The hybrid is something I am interested in; I think it is a lot to do with me coming from another background, growing up here. London is important to me because you can be a citizen without worrying about where you come from.’
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
ICON 4x4 goes EV, giving their classic Bronco-based restomod an electric twist
The EV Bronco is ICON 4x4’s first foray into electrifying its range of bespoke vintage off-roaders and SUVs
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘Dressed to Impress’ captures the vivid world of everyday fashion in the 1950s and 1960s
A new photography book from The Anonymous Project showcases its subjects when they’re dressed for best, posing for events and celebrations unknown
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Inside Camperlab’s Harry Nuriev-designed Paris store, a dramatic exercise in contrast
The Crosby Studios founder tells Wallpaper* the story behind his new store design for Mallorcan shoe brand Camperlab, which centres on an interplay between ‘crushed concrete’ and gleaming industrial design
By Jack Moss Published
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated