Berluti A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Men’s

Mood board: An electric blue suit, eased in proportion but still sharp, opened the show at the Opera Garnier. The staircase was strewn with a kaleidoscope of flowers in acid bright colours. Artistic director Kris Van Assche’s A/W 2020 collection surveyed notions of heritage both real and yet to be realised. Speaking about the collection, Van Assche said he was intrigued by what the maison’s century-old archives, which are largely focused on the craft of shoemaking and leather work, would hold if they contained tailoring and ready-to-wear. His musing put candid twists on classic suiting with pops of neon. A brightly hued roll-neck replaced a shirt-and-tie.
Team work: For December’s Design Miami, Van Assche joined forces with François Laffanour (founder of Paris’s Laffanour Galerie Downtown) to present a collection of original Pierre Jeanneret furniture pieces. Restored by Laffanour, they were upholstered with Berluti’s signature Venezia leather. The patina of a green blouson and lean leather suiting extended the concept one step further, giving the body a poetically perverse touch.
Finishing touches: Prince of Wales check, houndstooth and herringbone were all dialled up: houndstooth embroidered onto knitwear; the same tessellation blown up and refracted over a hand-splashed ponyskin jacket. Houndstooth blended with Prince of Wales check on a double-face wool coat. Shearling was shaved with chevrons. New for the season was a shoe care kit made in collaboration with Globe-Trotter. Van Assche examined the emblematic Scritto motif in a signature canvas which took its lines to form a logo that featured on canvas bags: ‘My idea was to design a printed canvas as if it had always existed in the archives,’ he said of the pattern. A bridge between past and potential.
Berluti A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Berluti A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Berluti A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Berluti A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Patek Philippe brings 15 new timepieces to Watches and Wonders 2025
The Swiss manufacturer showcases its intricate complications and elegant designs at the annual trade show with a suite of new models
By Anna Solomon Published
-
Watches & Wonders 2025: preview Richemont’s latest innovations, on show at the Geneva watch fair
Discover eight enticing timepieces from the luxury group, showcased this week at the Geneva fair
By Simon Mills Published
-
Masters of midcentury modern design and their creations spotlighted in new book
‘Mid-Century Modern Designers’ is a new book from Phaidon celebrating those who shaped the period and their notable creations, from furniture to objects
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?
These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated