Mood board: The late British fashion iconoclast Judy Blame nurtured a generation of artists and designers working in the late 1980s and 1990s and created much of the look now deemed to define that period. In 2005, talking to The New York Times he said of his penchant for bricolage: ‘When we haven't got the money, we have to use our imagination. I used to go and scavenge around the River Thames. I didn't have any fear about using something that wasn't classic jewellery material.’ Kim Jones looked to Blame’s legacy for A/W 20. ‘This show is dedicated to the memory of Judy Blame, a close friend and pioneer in the world of fashion, whose love of couture was an inspiration to us all,’ he said. The Dior logo was pierced with a safety pin. The attitude: neo-punk-opulence. Couture remixed and remastered.
Best in show: The Dior salon posture was there in the long gloves, sleeves pushed up above the elbow. Dior’s archives exude a timeless magic that has endured and exists as a treasure trove of inspiration. Its contents are a byword for elegance. Jones pushed the archival deference in the moiré effects of silk and placement of embroidery. Arabesque motifs and paisley patterns were inspired by the clothes made by Marc Bohan for the house during his 30-year tenure. The look was extravagant and dramatic; longer shirts, giant silk rosettes. Bricolage safety pin necklaces and trimmings across the collection were in direct homage to Blame.
Finishing touches: The iconic Gazette print that Blame created for John Galliano is reissued. Throughout the collection was the original toile de jouy motif that decorated Christian Dior’s first boutique – called “colifichets” – and a new “toile de judy” designed in collaboration with the trust Judy Blame Foundation. Berets by Stephen Jones paid tribute to Parisian culture and the pioneering Buffalo movement of the 1980s – of which Blame was a pivotal figure.
Dior A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Dior A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Dior A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Dior A/W 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Out of office: what the Wallpaper editors have been doing this weekA week of jetsetting has seen the editors in Tokyo, Milan, Vienna, Miami, New York and drinking Guinness with Jonathan Anderson in London
-
The Living Places experiment: how can architecture foster future wellbeing?Research initiative Living Places Copenhagen tests ideas around internal comfort and sustainable architecture standards to push the envelope on how contemporary homes and cities can be designed with wellness at their heart
-
Turin’s Museo Egizio gets an OMA makeover for its bicentenaryThe Gallery of the Kings at Turin’s Museo Egizio has been inaugurated after being remodelled by OMA, in collaboration with Andrea Tabocchini Architecture
-
Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
-
‘Modern beauty’: Pieter Mulier on his new vision for AlaïaAs creative director of Alaïa, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier honours the timeless vision of the maison’s founder while rewriting the past anew. Here, speaking to Jack Moss, he tells the story behind his first year at the house
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Mariella Bettineschi’s feminist artworks survey guests at Dior A/W 2022 showAs guests gathered at Dior’s A/W 2022 womenswear show venue in Paris, sets of duplicated eyes stared down at them from the artworks of Mariella Bettineschi
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 showDior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
-
Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
