Mood board: In 1978, artist David Wojnarowicz photographed a man wearing a paper mask of French poet, Arthur Rimbaud. Jonathan Anderson sent facsimiles of the mask as invitations to his A/W 20 show. He had seen a retrospective of Wojnarowicz’s work at KW Institute for Contemporary Art in Berlin. ‘I was thinking about how he interpreted the poet during that particular moment in New York and what that would be like today,’ Anderson said. Dressed in a new collaboration with Wojnarowicz’s estate, twosomes of mannequins sat wearing Rimbaud masks in between the guests. The collection zoomed in on the JWA look: the idea of the shift, a blowing up of proportions. The suggestion that a coat uses a total of fabric. An avant-garde timelessness.
Sound bite: Lining peeked out from below wool trousers; second layer shirting hovered underneath coats; lapels paired in harmony. There was a paisley silk duffel coat cut with trapeze proportions and long paisley tunics. ‘It’s really about a JW look. It’s about going back to triangular cutting, and it’s looking at how you do product that is substantial instead of having 15 coats,’ Anderson said. ‘Maybe have one coat in multiples and develop it to the point where it feels like it has always been there, like Rimbaud’s face. You take something which is poetic and you make it underground.’
Team work: There was a see-now-buy-now capsule featuring felted intarsia knit jumpers with an interpretation of the original artwork Untitled (Burning House) by Wojnarowicz. Proceeds will go to Visual AIDS, an organisation founded in 1988 to raise awareness and support HIV+ artists. ‘It is not about having a political voice just for the sake of it, it’s about stimulating creativity through having a political voice. It’s thinking before you speak, thinking before you act, and I think that’s what I like about the collection. There has been more of a reduction. I was looking at how David dresses and Rimbaud and the vocabulary of that moment in the 1970s when America felt like the end of the world but it wasn’t. There is an optimism as much as it is incredibly heavy. This sense that, you know, there will be a solution.’
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Out of office: what the Wallpaper editors have been doing this weekA week of jetsetting has seen the editors in Tokyo, Milan, Vienna, Miami, New York and drinking Guinness with Jonathan Anderson in London
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The Living Places experiment: how can architecture foster future wellbeing?Research initiative Living Places Copenhagen tests ideas around internal comfort and sustainable architecture standards to push the envelope on how contemporary homes and cities can be designed with wellness at their heart
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Turin’s Museo Egizio gets an OMA makeover for its bicentenaryThe Gallery of the Kings at Turin’s Museo Egizio has been inaugurated after being remodelled by OMA, in collaboration with Andrea Tabocchini Architecture
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Inside JW Anderson’s dreamy, colour-soaked collaboration with MonclerMade to ‘entertain the eye’, Jonathan Anderson’s third collaboration with Moncler is a dreamlike outing defined by the designer’s deft use of colour
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to FendiA Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
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The ceramics show celebrating Soho's drinking culture -
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
