Mood board: ‘New shapes, new fabrics and reworked prints,’ Smith said of his 50th anniversary collection. ‘I’ve softened British checks and houndstooth with Italian cloths and used exaggerated proportions to give it a dreamy feel.’ The designer is globally revered for his tailoring and print and for A/W 20 the suiting was light with a longer line on the jackets. Ties were replaced by high neck shirting with a zip at the side.
Best in show: The slightly flared trousers gave a nod to the 1970s when Smith began the label, working out of a small shop in Nottingham, which he started after meeting art students in the local Bell Inn pub. Speaking in 2008, he said: ‘they had an enormous effect on me – they opened up a world I did not know existed and probably the key thing was that the world was not just clothes but all aspects of creativity and this is what I tried to express.’ His collection forewent any romanticism, however, and instead looked ahead with long puffa jackets and trainers and floral-camo denim.
Sound bite: Smith has endured as a British design icon for half a century. ‘With it being my 50th anniversary, I’ve reflected on memorable moments from my own archive but reworked them in a modern and restrained way. I’ve revisited details from my past like raw edges, top-stitching and denim and brought them back!’ he said. Smith took an energetic bow as footage of his fifty years of finales played on a giant screen behind him.
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Teruhiro Yanagihara's new textile for Kvadrat boasts a rhythmic design reimagining Japanese handsewing techniques‘Ame’ designed by Teruhiro Yanagihara for Danish brand Kvadrat is its first ‘textile-to-textile’ product, made entirely of polyester recycled from fabric waste. The Japanese designer tells us more
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‘A hat is an alibi, a fabulous lie’: radical milliner Stephen Jones on his career-spanning new Paris exhibitionAs ‘Stephen Jones, Chapeaux d’Artiste’ opens at Paris’ Palais Galliera, the British milliner tells Wallpaper* about the transformative power of hats, the one designer he wishes he’d collaborated with, and his lifelong love of Paris
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The Acme Novelty Datebook is Chris Ware’s last volume of intriguing sketchbooks and thoughtsChris Ware presents his ‘artisanal rewritings of personal conflict’, a third and final volume charting the American artist and author’s process
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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