Haider Ackermann is making a welcome habit of inviting editors, buyers and friends for a low-key intimate menswear showing over wine and chitchat. His spring session saw models winding inside and out of a sunlit salon, shadows cast on the walls as they posed in the long grass. Gliding down a salmon-coloured carpet to the strains of Bob Dylan, their silken blazers were falling off one shoulder at times to reveal filmy knits and satin shirts, paired with fluid trousers and washed, rumpled scarves. This collection saw the boys borrowing from Ackermann's women a tad more than usual (Liya Kebede and Saskia de Brauw walked too, as a case in point), with glossy PVC trousers and stretch leather leggings worn with rope sandals. Ample bomber jackets in wine jacquard or chartreuse velvet held a more masculine swagger, their antique feel and rich colours playing off the psychedelic monochrome checks. The effect was of a seductive, modish bohemia.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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