Lanvin S/S 2015

Lucas Ossendrijver had the classical mother and daughter silhouette in Jeanne Lanvin’s logo on his mind, speeding out models through two freestanding wooden doorways - one big, one small - in the spectacular Beaux-Arts salon. Ossendrijver was thinking of the way city boys travel - on bikes and metros, with rolled up sleeves and a bag slung over one shoulder - which he addressed through garments constructed with a unique sense of techno-classicism. This season shook off any digital or ethnic forays to focus on the needs of the mobile city slicker, nuanced in a palette of industrial greys, night sky blues, wine and forest green tones (bar the pop of traffic light red and ice blue). The doorway metaphor was echoed in a play with garment proportions – like the giant grosgrain belts or waistbands slung around generous trousers, or the way a hooded, silk nylon parka was cropped into a bomber. The finessed mix of soft and strict designs ensured a layered lightness to this outing. Lucas’ expert double-face construction and longline tailoring found its deconstructed match in the loose, threaded topstitching and uneven leather fringes that frayed off seams and hemlines, for a raw and primal allure.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Warp Records announces its first event in over a decade at the Barbican
‘A Warp Happening,' landing 14 June, is guaranteed to be an epic day out
By Tianna Williams
-
Cure your ‘beauty burnout’ with Kindred Black’s artisanal glassware
Does a cure for ‘beauty burnout’ lie in bespoke design? The founders of Kindred Black think so. Here, they talk Wallpaper* through the brand’s latest made-to-order venture
By India Birgitta Jarvis
-
The UK AIDS Memorial Quilt will be shown at Tate Modern
The 42-panel quilt, which commemorates those affected by HIV and AIDS, will be displayed in Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall in June 2025
By Anna Solomon