Maison Martin Margiela S/S 2015

A recent change of the guard at the Margiela menswear department has stirred a beautiful nostalgia in the collections. Yet rather than resembling a caricature of Martin's own work, it is instead a respectful look at soft layered tailoring with obtuse diversions into the avant-garde. This spring took ideas of freedom and movement as cornerstones for a quirky exercise in workwear, uniforms and formality skewed. Opening in chalky tones and closing in a barrage of marigold, mandarin, sapphire and emerald hues, the Maison's gaze shifted from the apocalyptic survivalism of last season towards a playful and boyish attitude. This manifested in the schoolboy play of skin under a double-breasted chesterfield coat or the way tied parachute pants dropped with a second waistband at the hip. Trousers were spliced, half denim half suiting wool, with a trickier version fusing a suit pant with a towelling short and sock. A finale of beaded bodies channelled the spirit of the Artisanal line, emblazoned with varsity symbolism like brilliant tattoos.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Sotheby’s is auctioning a rare Frank Lloyd Wright lamp – and it could fetch $5 million
The architect's ‘Double-Pedestal’ lamp, which was designed for the Dana House in 1903, is hitting the auction block 13 May at Sotheby's.
By Anna Solomon
-
Naoto Fukasawa sparks children’s imaginations with play sculptures
The Japanese designer creates an intuitive series of bold play sculptures, designed to spark children’s desire to play without thinking
By Danielle Demetriou
-
Japan in Milan! See the highlights of Japanese design at Milan Design Week 2025
At Milan Design Week 2025 Japanese craftsmanship was a front runner with an array of projects in the spotlight. Here are some of our highlights
By Danielle Demetriou
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins