A recent change of the guard at the Margiela menswear department has stirred a beautiful nostalgia in the collections. Yet rather than resembling a caricature of Martin's own work, it is instead a respectful look at soft layered tailoring with obtuse diversions into the avant-garde. This spring took ideas of freedom and movement as cornerstones for a quirky exercise in workwear, uniforms and formality skewed. Opening in chalky tones and closing in a barrage of marigold, mandarin, sapphire and emerald hues, the Maison's gaze shifted from the apocalyptic survivalism of last season towards a playful and boyish attitude. This manifested in the schoolboy play of skin under a double-breasted chesterfield coat or the way tied parachute pants dropped with a second waistband at the hip. Trousers were spliced, half denim half suiting wool, with a trickier version fusing a suit pant with a towelling short and sock. A finale of beaded bodies channelled the spirit of the Artisanal line, emblazoned with varsity symbolism like brilliant tattoos.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
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London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
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Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
