Raf Simons S/S 2015

An announcement vetoed flash photography before the Raf Simons' show, where the audience all stood around his winding catwalk marked in silver gaffer on the concrete floor. After autumn's high-impact partnership with the artist Sterling Ruby, Simons' went lo-fi, illuminating the show with eerie red and green spotlights, which rendered colour-recognition of his garments (and any decent iPhone photos) near impossible. As the first diptychs and triptychs of sleeveless and slim-tailored looks began to file out on solemn models, their short hair extended into spidery extensions across the face. A second reason for Simons' light rules then surfaced in his latest, fancy footwear: LA Gear style light-up soles blinking sporadically as the boys walked. Alongside his adidas Stan Smith collaboration, those trainers grounded an introspective collection that plumbed Simons' own legacy to superb effect with tinges of winter's utilitarian shapes and patchwork effects fused with a clean, long silhouette and knitwear layers. Flat, bonded patches over the cape backs of mariner coats told a turbulent back story of Simons' past, with odes to horror films, his hometown of Antwerp, and Tokyo (cue Jaws, family photos, and koi carp), whilst the most precious pieces were a series of seed-beaded tank tops, depicting Japanese seascapes in deep, ocean blue and a delicate pale pink cherry blossom.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans