An announcement vetoed flash photography before the Raf Simons' show, where the audience all stood around his winding catwalk marked in silver gaffer on the concrete floor. After autumn's high-impact partnership with the artist Sterling Ruby, Simons' went lo-fi, illuminating the show with eerie red and green spotlights, which rendered colour-recognition of his garments (and any decent iPhone photos) near impossible. As the first diptychs and triptychs of sleeveless and slim-tailored looks began to file out on solemn models, their short hair extended into spidery extensions across the face. A second reason for Simons' light rules then surfaced in his latest, fancy footwear: LA Gear style light-up soles blinking sporadically as the boys walked. Alongside his adidas Stan Smith collaboration, those trainers grounded an introspective collection that plumbed Simons' own legacy to superb effect with tinges of winter's utilitarian shapes and patchwork effects fused with a clean, long silhouette and knitwear layers. Flat, bonded patches over the cape backs of mariner coats told a turbulent back story of Simons' past, with odes to horror films, his hometown of Antwerp, and Tokyo (cue Jaws, family photos, and koi carp), whilst the most precious pieces were a series of seed-beaded tank tops, depicting Japanese seascapes in deep, ocean blue and a delicate pale pink cherry blossom.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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‘Splash! A Century of Swimming and Style’ at Design Museum interrogates the loaded history of swimwearCurator Amber Butchart speaks to Wallpaper* about the Design Museum’s latest exhibition, which explores the cultural impact of swimwear – from Pamela Anderson’s bombshell ‘Baywatch’ one-piece to those made for sports, leisure or fashion statement
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The Frick Collection's expansion by Selldorf Architects is both surgical and delicateThe New York cultural institution gets a $220 million glow-up
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Come as you are to see Kurt Cobain’s acoustic guitar on show in the UK for the first timeKurt Cobain’s acoustic guitar goes on display at the Royal College of Music Museum in London as part of an exhibition exploring Nirvana’s MTV Unplugged performance
