Mood board: How does a global luxury brand that started life as a saddlery business on London's Euston Road in 1893 grab the attention of the contemporary well-dressed man? Dunhill creative director John Ray answered that this season with a celebration of the idiosyncrasies that men bring to conventional dressing. Noting the rakish charm of the late actor David Niven and the all-together aloof and jaunty charisma of British princes in their youth, the clothes presented at Phillips Gallery suited the man who chooses to dress up at the weekend when everyone else might be dressing down.
Best in show: Roomy striped rugby shirts cut in smart cotton shirting were worn with silk neckerchiefs and a raised collar. Double pleat front trousers were wide and rolled up at the ankle suggesting a uniform for the gentleman whose military roots are never far away.
Scene setting: The collection was shown to the sounds of Acid Brass - a musical collaboration between Turner Prize-winning artist Jeremy Deller and the Williams Fairey Brass Band that first began in 1997. A reworking of 808 State's 1989 track Pacific State, reimagined by brass band became the aural footnote to the offbeat ways in which English gentlemen enjoy riffing off of their own traditions.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Unboxing beauty products from 2024, as seen on the pages of Wallpaper*Wallpaper's 2024 beauty picks included Chanel lipstick, Bottega Veneta perfume and solid soap from the likes of Aesop, Celine, Diptyque, Hermès and Sisley
-
The cosiest alpine retreats to book in EuropeBrowse the Wallpaper* edit of European alpine retreats where to fully embrace the ski season
-
The innovations and eccentricities coming soon from the Chinese auto industryChina accounts for 75 per cent of new EVs, and new models arrive on a weekly basis. Here are some of the key brands looking to reshape the automotive landscape in the years to come
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's -
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
