Mood board: Lucas Ossendrijver's brave new spin on 1980s New Wave included paper-bag waist pants, cross-body suit jackets, car coats in supple leather, flashes of animal print and spread collar knits. A fine wool suit stood out as much for its summer weight ease as its sporty zip front and slim leg - which is to say, the collection leaned largely dark and generously proportioned.
Best in show: For a collection that eschewed ornamentation, the jackets and shirts featuring exposed seams and wayward threads (or more precisely, fringes) felt like welcome deviations. This season's sneakers were similarly scaled back - although arguably edgier thanks to an all-black boot silhouette. If you were tiring of the futuristic robo styles, now's the time to revisit the range.
Finishing touches: Bags, by and large, were supple with multi-purpose appeal. A half-moon shaped canvas carryall was scaled up so that it appeared rugged, even military-inspired. By comparison, a satchel in grey leather would accommodate day-to-day city needs. With canvas handles and an adjustable strap, the matte grey snakeskin scrunched tote seemed versatile and distinctive in equal measure.
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Glenn Martens is headed to Maison Margiela as the house’s new creative directorThe former Y/Project designer and current Diesel creative director will replace John Galliano, who exited the Maison Margiela in late 2024
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Glamping on the Greek riviera: an alternative resort rooted in luxuryWe check in at the 91 Athens Riviera; an alternative seaside glamping resort in the Greek capital that is all about relaxed luxury
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Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, Saint Laurent’s surprise menswear show captured ‘a menacing, seductive elegance’Staged at Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Anthony Vaccarello mashed up Rive Gauche elegance with Robert Mapplethorpe-inspired kink for his A/W 2025 Saint Laurent menswear collection
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
