Aitor Throup S/S 2017

Scene setting: Aitor Throup returned to the catwalk with a tight collection of trans-seasonal prototypes that were presented across three acts. The show was something of a self portrait as Throup has spent the most part of his ten-year career invested in the development of what he called 'hermetically sealed concepts' – not fashion. Guests arrived to his S/S 2017 show to find a sculptural installation entitled The Resting of the Past made up of four life-casts made to his own exact measurements, dressed in prototypes from concepts that were last shown in 2013. Lain on top of one another as if discarded, they preceded a performance with six looks presented on articulated dummies, operated by puppeteers. The clothes shown – hooded sweatshirts, quilted parka jackets – will go on to inform a fully, commercially distributed collection that will be released early next year.
Sound bite: 'I always knew that I wasn’t interested in fashion and seasons – I was interested in product design development and I knew I was good at telling stories. I worked on being a storyteller. Kubrick is my hero, so I tried to do something like what he did but through product design. I have a point of view about archetypal garments that can be worn in new ways for functional, ergonomic reasons but they can have a point of view on silhouette too. I want to reimagine what menswear looks like and this is the beginning.'
Team work: Theatre director, dramaturge and puppeteer Rachel Warr, worked with Throup on the show’s evocative choreography. She tasked five puppeteers to bring an articulated, life-sized mannequin to life – and in so doing reanimated the theatrical aspect of fashion long since lost in an age drawn to the immediacy of the flat image. Throup’s collaboration with Warr brought not only his conceptual thinking to life, it has blown some dust off the conventional catwalk show too.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressing
Part of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
By Orla Brennan
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationship
Announcing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
By Hugo Macdonald
-
Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craft
The heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
By Cristina Kiran Piotti
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins