Richard James S/S 2017

Mood board: The 1950s were a great time for menswear – the suits and swagger of the period continue to shape our ideal of the well-dressed man. At Richard James, the backdrop to S/S 2017 was the hedonism and heat of fifties Havana. Its muse was the adventurer and contrebandier Michael Caborn-Waterfield, better known as Dandy Kim. A colourful character in post–war London, he was an impeccably dressed gentleman who, amongst other things, cosied up to Diana Dors, smuggled guns into Cuba and served time in a French jail. His air of sharply-suited insouciance pervades the season’s offering.
Best in show: Finely detailed prints on shirting capture the haze of art deco Havana, ripe for a revival from Houston to Hamburg. A linen suit is always useful in warmer climes – here it was double-breasted worn with wide, high-waisted pleated trousers, cut in crisp two-faced linen.
Scene setting: James first opened up shop at 37a Savile Row in 1992, introducing Saturday opening to the venerated street. At the start of the new millennium James moved to number 29, which is today the home of the brand’s flagship store, design studio and showroom. The shop has provided the backdrop to seasonal presentations since 2012. S/S 2017’s bright offering was worn by a cluster of dapper models who lingered and lolled on the furniture.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Tokyo James shines a light on refined stones in new jewellery collection
Tokyo James creates jewellery made from magnesites, anthracites and gypsum, paired with Swarovski crystals
By Mazzi Odu Published
-
Must-visit cinemas with award-worthy design
Creativity leaps the screen at these design-led cinemas, from Busan Cinema Centre’s record-flying roof to The Gem Cinema Jaipur’s art deco allure
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
The modernist home of musician Imogen Holst gets Grade II listing
The daughter of the composer Gustav Holst lived here from 1964 until her death, during which time the home served a locus for her own composition work, which included assisting Benjamin Britten
By Anna Solomon Published
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated