Dries Van Noten S/S 2017
For spring, Dries Van Noten’s artisanal aesthetic assumed the view from Kelmscott Manor in Oxfordshire, the country home of William Morris

Mood board: Dries Van Noten’s house codes are well known. His unwavering focus on relaxed tailoring with sportswear influences, the pinstripes, the camo, the antique embroideries, the graphic prints – all of them were there in the audience at his S/S 2017 show. For spring, Van Noten’s artisanal aesthetic assumed the view from Kelmscott Manor in Oxfordshire, the country home of William Morris. It is a view filled with threadbare tapestries and artfully knitted textiles. The collection used fabrics and volume as ornamentation.
Finishing touches: The clothes were sporty, relaxed and loose. An ode to utopians, libertarians, craftspeople, draughtsmen, textile and ceramic art – the organic, raw and handmade loomed large. Five antique tapestries were photographed and printed onto wide-legged trousers, double-breasted jackets and voluminous outerwear. Denim jeans were also reconstructed and bespoke calligraphy created by artist Pokras Lampas was embroidered tone on tone.
Scene setting: Inside a large concert hall located in the Bercy area of Paris, a huge wall made up of automobile headlights stood as a backdrop to the show. Created by the French theatre company Royal de Luxe, the wall has been touring across Europe in a series of colossal puppet shows and was most recently installed on the Antwerp Theaterplein. The team of inventors, stuntmen, poets and scrap dealers, led by Jean-Luc Courcoult, share Van Noten’s unshakable reverence for the art of craft.
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressing
Part of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
By Orla Brennan
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationship
Announcing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
By Hugo Macdonald
-
Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craft
The heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
By Cristina Kiran Piotti
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins