Mood board: Shoppers flock to Junya Watanabe because of its playful reassessment of archetypal men’s clothes; smart jackets, neat denims and tidy shirts are always at the fore. The S/S collection was shown in a concrete parking garage, festooned with colorful graffiti and was modelled by a cast of gypsy mobsters, some of whom had tattoos painted on for the show. All in all, Watanabe pushed a more relaxed, laid-back look for the season drawing inspiration from the 1998 Serbian farce, Black Cat, White Cat directed by Emir Kusturica.
Best in show: Hybrid garments for the modern man; fine wool suiting had tough biker jacket sleeves attached in leather. Denim jackets – the result of an ongoing collaboration with Levis – had sleeves that were turned inside out, revealing paisley print lining. A double breasted jacket was worn with swagger, the matching trouser finished with an athletic, jersey rib cuff at the ankle.
Team work: Like his early mentor Rei Kawakubo, Watanabe is notoriously singular in his approach. He chooses to forego traditional advertising and retail in favour of collaborations with other brands. Spring embraces multiple collaborations; Levi’s for denim, knitwear from John Smedley and shoes by Heinrich Dinkelacker.
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
-
Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationshipAnnouncing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
-
Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craftThe heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
