Wooyoungmi S/S 2017
Mood board: The collections of Madame Woo and daughter Katie Chung always err on the delicate side of masculinity, without any hint of dress-up. For S/S they showed a range of fluid clothes with checks, stripes and wavy lines fit for all sorts of boys about town. A range of playful, sensitive contrasts were present throughout; shoulder seams on tailored jackets were lightly puckered, graphic windowpane check was used on bigger, more volumous trousers and shorts oozed a rippled cool.
Best in show: Sol LeWitt’s epic wall drawings were a key reference. Chung said backstage that she was struck by the sensitivity and beauty of their haphazard precision. There is a synergy between the radical geometry of the prints for the season and the sway of the cloth. Details taken from the protective wear worn by Olympic Shooting athletes provided graphic shapes that were applied asymmetrically to the back of spongy overcoats.
Sound bite: We had been thinking about doing something on Sol LeWitt’s work for almost a year now and the time felt right for spring,’ said Katie Chung. ‘We wanted to combine the essence of his graphic work with classic menswear patterns like checks and pinstripes. There’s a play on contrast throughout the collection; we made sure to match rigid fabrics with textiles that were more romantic and soft. We’re always interested in this softer side to masculine style.’
INFORMATION
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craft
Archer + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its best
Formafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
By Henrietta Thompson Published
-
Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treat
Until December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
By Ellen Himelfarb Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated