Mood board: Martine Rose explored pieces worn by ‘outdoor types’. She translated the clothing of golfers, climbers and ramblers into a contemporary, cool wardrobe of oversized sportswear and reinterpretations of recognisable pieces from raincoats to Alpine sweaters and thick fleece. Rose also cited Trevor Hughes’ street portraits of bicycle couriers taken in the 1990s in Toronto. They embody a male athleticism that is less pomp and more pragmatism; Rose’s vision of masculine identity is as complicated as it is concise.
Best in show: Classic patterns such as checks and stripes were worn alongside grandad suiting and layered money belts. Standout was the reimagined outerwear; from a brawny zip-up fleece cut in couture volumes to patch technical jackets in bright red, purple and forest green.
Scene setting: Rose’s label has been based in Tottenham for a decade. Last season she hosted her buzzy show at Seven Sisters Market and for S/S 2018 she stayed local again, inviting guests to an indoor climbing centre. Aesthetically the interior of the space, complete with its brightly coloured footholds and mock rock walls made for a good backdrop for showing seasonal fashions – but Rose’s aim is bigger than the photo opportunity on offer. With every outing she revels in the diversity and the magic of her city. And she’s encouraging more of us to do the same.
Martine Rose S/S 2018
Martine Rose S/S 2018
Martine Rose S/S 2018
Martine Rose S/S 2018
-
'Refined, serene, provocative': inside the Islamic Arts Biennale 2025We visit the Islamic Arts Biennale in Jeddah, open from now until the end of May, and explore a nimble curation that juxtaposes the ancient and the contemporary
-
Mushroom beta-glucans are a hero ingredient for French skincare brand VerdoieMushroom beta-glucans are new French skincare and supplement brand Verdoie’s hero ingredient. Laura Feinstein speaks to its founder Sonia Gaillis-Delepine to find out why
-
Bulgari’s new exhibition pays homage to the snake in culture, art and jewelleryThe high jewellery maison celebrates the Chinese zodiac in ‘Serpenti Infinito’, a Shanghai exhibition that traces how the symbol of the serpent has manifested throughout history
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
