Mood board: For the first time since taking over the creative direction of the brand in 2013, Andreas Melbostad showed his menswear and womenswear collections together. Add to this the fact that his references for the collection sit comfortably in the nineties and you have two of the prevailing themes of the last few seasons. The traditional showing and buying schedule is exhausting an already fatigued system, and the nineties are now officially long enough ago to be a sound point of reference. The show opened with four women’s looks – grunge plaid slip-dresses worn over long-sleeve jerseys and flat boots – a look both of the moment and of the past.
Scene setting: Melbostad, who lives in New York, took the collection to the streets with the runway built to resemble a concrete sidewalk. Set in the middle of a large industrial building, the models walked to the stirring instrumental composition, Clubbed to Death by Rob Dougan, which was used in the 1999 sci-fi film The Matrix. The staging created an upfront, punchy mood.
Finishing touches: Elsewhere designers have focused their attentions on developing lightweight fabrics and easy wear materials designed for warmer climes. Diesel is known primarily for its tough leather jackets and hardy denims and so embraced a more layered look for summer. The models wore slim ski-cum-surf pants underneath leather culotte shorts, three-quarter length sleeve parkers and jackets over multi-striped jumpers and jersey separates. Colours went from black to blue, aqua to wine. Stand out were the roomy cargo pants in heavy denim and lightweight technical nylon.
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Travel editor Sofia de la Cruz’s gift guide for the discerning globetrotterWallpaper* travel editor Sofia de la Cruz curates her festive wish list, packed with stylish essentials for those constantly on the go
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Paul Smith’s Claridge’s Christmas tree is a playful slice of ‘countryside in the centre of London’Sir Paul Smith is the latest in a long line of fashion designers to curate the iconic Claridge’s Christmas tree. Here, he talks to Wallpaper* about the inspiration behind the tree, which features bird boxes and wooden animals
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Victoire de Castellane nods to Dior motifs in a new fine jewellery collectionFor the latest additions to the My Dior collection, Victoire de Castellane turns the house’s signature cannage motif into golden wonders
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
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Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
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BOSS A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
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Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
