Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2018
Mood board: The night before the show, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana hosted an impromptu, intimate display of their more sartorial collection at The Bar Martini. In sharp contrast, their approach to the mainline was to stage-manage an inferno of influence, with 106 looks each modelled by a roll-call of Insta-somebodies. The conflab around showing fashion on ‘real’ bodies (and by association, ‘real’ people) reached new, headier heights as walking for Dolce were the Insta-famous, the Insta-hot and the Insta-oh. Pierce Brosnan’s son Dylan, Bill Clinton’s nephew Tyler and Marlon Brando’s grandson, Tuki, all made an appearance.
Best in show: The collection was as eclectic as the casting. Entitled ‘King Of Hearts’, it was dedicated to the raft of millennials who walked the show to a playlist of chart roaring, auto-tuned pop songs lamenting unrequited love. Fittingly, hashtags about love and life were emblazoned on almost everything from cropped bomber jackets to t-shirts and shawl-collar blazers. Trainers and jackets were graffitied with impish irreverence too. Standout was the Dolce & Gabbana playing-card king motif in many dizzying iterations, printed on silk and cut into nifty pyjama suits.
Scene setting: It isn’t clear if this millennial frivolity has a fiscal return, but outside of the show venue – on the fringes of the virtual world – scores of flustered teenage fans screamed and crushed into one another to snatch a view of their favourite It Boy. The combined following of those who walked in the show reaches well over a jaw-dropping 35 million. Elsewhere, leopards, tigers and snakes appeared across shirts and heavily embroidered on jackets. Needless to say, both online and off, it’s a jungle out there.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
‘Concrete Dreams’: rethinking Newcastle’s brutalist past
A new project and exhibition at the Farrell Centre in Newcastle revisits the radical urban ideas that changed Tyneside in the 1960s and 1970s
By Smilian Cibic Published
-
Mexican designers show their metal at Gallery Collectional, Dubai
‘Unearthing’ at Dubai’s Gallery Collectional sees Ewe Studio designers Manu Bañó and Héctor Esrawe celebrate Mexican craftsmanship with contemporary forms
By Rebecca Anne Proctor Published
-
At The Manner, New York has a highly fashionable new living room
The Manner, a new hopsitality experience by Standard International in the heart of SoHo, triples up as a hotel, private residence, and members’ club
By Hannah Walhout Published
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega Veneta
In this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
By Scarlett Conlon Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to Fendi
A Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Dolce & Gabbana unveils monthly fashion show concept
The Milan label has revealed a digital presentation concept, featuring a monthly digital fashion show and see-now-buy-now retail model
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Recapping Milan’s virtual mens fashion week
Themes of rebirth, re-emergence and reflection embodied the season's multimedia events
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
A decade of fashion show history in pictures
British photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
By Jason Lloyd-Evans - Photography Last updated
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated