Mood board: The show was billed as ‘a dialogue with Japan of an other era’. The collection unfolded into a series of fluid, tailored pieces and lavish hakama-style trousers in traditional suiting and silks. Armani sent out groupings of models each in a specific style and naturally there was a lot of navy, grey and well cut suiting. Standout were the more directional long-line tailored pieces with zipped vents at the back worn underneath three-button suit jackets. The trousers for S/S 2018 had wide single pleats at the front and were cut at the ankle.
Finishing touches: Milan loves a Millennial. Ahead of Dolce & Gabbana’s lengthy show with its 106 influencer models, Emporio Armani ended its show with the unveiling of a new smart-watch line, dubbed ‘Connected’ and fronted by the singer Shawn Mendes. For the whole weekend, thousands of teenage girls have caused traffic jams outside the Armani hotel on Via Alessandro Manzoni to steal a selfie with the Canadian megastar. Mendes appears in a video to promote the watch, which was screened at the end of the S/S 2018 catwalk show. In it, he plays his hit song Mercy via his smartwatch, dancing as electronic waves rush through a cityscape. Armani described Mendes as ‘a singer of true talent who touches the hearts of his fans.’ One who is sure to introduce Armani Connected to his millions of devotees.
Best in show: Floral silk blousons and jacquards, koi carp intarsia sweaters and leather lace-work jackets in red created a happy marriage between Japanese iconography and Armani codes. Before Mendes’ appearance, seven models walked out in a series of Aikido-style uniforms in floral jacquard, led by a high-kicking martial arts performer.
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The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
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London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
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Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
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First look at Our Legacy’s cat-adorned Emporio Armani collaborationFeline forms appear throughout a new collection from Emporio Armani and Swedish brand Our Legacy (out 17 November 2023), combining the brands’ unique aesthetics
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Giorgio Armani’s tennis-inspired collection celebrates a longtime love of the gameThe Giorgio Armani Tennis Classic at London’s Hurlingham Club brought together the game’s biggest stars in the run-up to Wimbledon. In celebration, the house has created a capsule collection that mines tennis’ traditional dress codes for inspiration
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Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
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Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
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Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
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The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion weekTake an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
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A decade of fashion show history in picturesBritish photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
