Ermenegildo Zegna Couture S/S 2018
Mood board: Artistic director Alessandro Sartori continues to present his vision of the modern man, having rejoined the company last year following his time at the creative helm of Z Zegna from 2003 to 2011. For S/S 2018, the collection maintained the sports-lux mood. Smart bombers, canneté cuffed trousers and suiting came in century cashmere, pure mohair and flowing washed silks which can be scrunched up into a ball. The fashion message felt fluid and fresh. Standout was a tailored suit in mesh jacquard and the evolution of the leather technique, Pelle Tessuta, which weaves together thin strips of leather in a contemporary take on artisanal textile on tailoring and sneakers.
Scene setting: Guests entered through a large maze, clad with bright green astro turf, puzzling mirrors and digital screens showing artisans at work in the atelier. The show was held in a futurist forest in the historic courtyards of the University of Milan. ‘I couldn’t imagine a better place than this courtyard, where I often spent time in my youth reading, writing and sketching,’ Sartori said.
Finishing touches: Twelve of the looks shown are available to order in selected worldwide boutiques. A selection of ready-to-wear and accessories can be made to order with additional handmade knotting, painting and embroidery. Mesh cut calfskin leather, suede intarsia, hand bleached denim – Zegna’s passion for the artisanal was on full display.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Thirty years after Dog Man Star, Brett Anderson looks back on Suede's album covers
Brett Anderson talks cover art, photography and iconic imagery
By Amah-Rose Abrams Published
-
A brutalist garden revived: the case of the Mountbatten House grounds by Studio Knight Stokoe
Tour a brutalist garden redesign by Studio Knight Stokoe at Mountbatten House, a revived classic in Basingstoke, UK
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Wallpaper* checks in at the refreshed W Hollywood: ‘more polish and less party’
The W Hollywood introduces a top-to-bottom reimagining by the Rockwell Group, capturing the genuine warmth and spirit of Southern California
By Carole Dixon Published
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega Veneta
In this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
By Scarlett Conlon Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to Fendi
A Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Fendi to Dior: A/W 2021’s standout menswear shows
Join us as we delight in the A/W 2021 menswear shows, featuring digital catwalk collections from brands including Fendi, Prada, Dior and Louis Vuitton
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Recapping Milan’s virtual mens fashion week
Themes of rebirth, re-emergence and reflection embodied the season's multimedia events
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion week
Take an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated