Giorgio Armani S/S 2018
Mood board: There is an exhaustive rigour to Giorgio Armani. For S/S 2018 his classic sense of suntanned machismo was maintained as each of the models circled an illuminated track with ‘Made in Armani’ emblazoned behind them. Armani has been in the business – and independently owned – for more than 40 years. This show made a statement of his singularity. It opened with a long, double breasted frock coat in linen faithful to the designer’s legendary oeuvre, and continued with a number of well tailored separates in tones of grey, white and navy. From the wide-leg seersucker trousers, to the quilted two-button jackets and suede blousons, this is Armani’s own brand of chic. It is a style that goes in and out of fashion. But it is a lifestyle that you keep forever.
Scene setting: Walking into the brand’s HQ on Via Bergognone is like stepping out of the real world. Here is a cosmos of thick polished concrete walls, sinuous shadow and light. Japanese architect Tadao Ando was commissioned to convert the former Nestlé chocolate factory in 2000 – its central theatre has provided the venue to all of Mr Armani’s shows ever since. It is an exclusive, elegant grey catacomb where men are well tanned and well suited.
Best in show: Made in India, made in China, made in Armani. Standout was an oversize trench worn with tote bag marked with Armani’s own signature and the washed silk suits in steely grey worn with minimalist sneakers. Loafers were worn as slippers, their backs nonchalantly crushed down in a way that was amazingly audacious and amazingly Armani.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Wallpaper* checks in at the refreshed W Hollywood: ‘more polish and less party’
The W Hollywood introduces a top-to-bottom reimagining by the Rockwell Group, capturing the genuine warmth and spirit of Southern California
By Carole Dixon Published
-
Book a table at Row on 5 in London for the dinner party of dreams
Row on 5, the first restaurant ever to open on Savile Row, emerges as a perfectly tailored fit for fans of fine dining
By Ben McCormack Published
-
How a bijou jewellery salon in Monaco set the jewellery trends for 2025
Inside the inaugural edition of Joya, where jewellery is celebrated as miniature works of art
By Jean Grogan Published
-
First look at Our Legacy’s cat-adorned Emporio Armani collaboration
Feline forms appear throughout a new collection from Emporio Armani and Swedish brand Our Legacy (out 17 November 2023), combining the brands’ unique aesthetics
By Jack Moss Published
-
Giorgio Armani’s tennis-inspired collection celebrates a longtime love of the game
The Giorgio Armani Tennis Classic at London’s Hurlingham Club brought together the game’s biggest stars in the run-up to Wimbledon. In celebration, the house has created a capsule collection that mines tennis’ traditional dress codes for inspiration
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to Prada
From Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega Veneta
In this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
By Scarlett Conlon Last updated
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxation
Milan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021
Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
By Nick Vinson - Art Direction Last updated
-
The filmic vision of Paris’ virtual men’s fashion week
Take an in-depth look at the trends of Paris' fashion week for Spring/Summer 2021, where brands turned to the moving image to express their collections virtually
By Pei-Ru Keh Last updated
-
A decade of fashion show history in pictures
British photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
By Jason Lloyd-Evans - Photography Last updated