Mood board: Nino Cerruti, who founded his namesake label in Paris in 1967, today manages the Italian family business Lanificio Fratelli Cerruti. As a result, the house boasts a vast archive located in the Piedmontese town of Biella, which creative director Jason Basmajian delved into this season. The look was influenced by the tropical style designed by Cerruti for the cult 1980s TV series Miami Vice: think oversized unlined double-breasted jackets worn with T-shirts or V-neck shirts and smart bermudas. The collection had a lightness, communicated in a rainbow of fresh colours, including creams, lime and electric blue. Basmajian’s thing is tailoring and at Cerutti 1881 he has struck the right balance between up and and downtown; there’s a nonchalance to the bravura, a pep to the precision.
Best in show: Natural fabrics, including cool wool, cotton, silk, linen and ultralight nubuck lend a luxe, sporty feel. Fittingly, the looks included stripes and a graphic palm leaf pattern printed on shirts, woven into knitwear and on jacquard pieces. The 1980s were, after all, all about being bold, and wearing your label on your lapel. Following on from Donatella Versace’s reissue of a logo from 1989 and Kim Jones’ nineties house style revival of Louis Vuitton’s monogram, here the graphic Cerruti logo was emblazoned on T-shirts and sweatshirts.
Sound bite: ‘I was so excited to go through Nino Cerruti's archive and draw inspiration from the work he did for Miami Vice in 1984,’ Basmajian said. ‘I’ve worked with refreshing pop rock shades including sangria, cream, like, electric blue - with a range of natural fabrics – to create a casual luxe and sport mood. The relaxed silhouette, fresh colours and sporty chic mood with an 80s twist felt right for how men want to dress now.’
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Glenn Martens is headed to Maison Margiela as the house’s new creative directorThe former Y/Project designer and current Diesel creative director will replace John Galliano, who exited the Maison Margiela in late 2024
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Glamping on the Greek riviera: an alternative resort rooted in luxuryWe check in at the 91 Athens Riviera; an alternative seaside glamping resort in the Greek capital that is all about relaxed luxury
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Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, Saint Laurent’s surprise menswear show captured ‘a menacing, seductive elegance’Staged at Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Anthony Vaccarello mashed up Rive Gauche elegance with Robert Mapplethorpe-inspired kink for his A/W 2025 Saint Laurent menswear collection
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
