Mood board: The men’s S/S 2018 Issey Miyake collection was titled ‘Through the Desert’. The show notes talked about the presence of a powerful man in an immense landscape. Fashion hokum or a case in point? Sometimes it is hard to tell, but Yusuke Takahashi’s collection, which was shown in the modernist stepped courtyard of the Université Pierre et Marie Curie was the utmost in urbane elegance. With technical fabrications deft of hand, these clothes are rigid yet languid, minimalist yet rich.
Finishing touches: Standout were a series of overshirts made from fabrics that use a salt-shrinking technique. Applied in a ripple mark pattern on polyester broad cloth and cotton, the pattern had a tribal modernism that underscored the rigorous minimalism of the suiting, which closed the show. Takahashi’s trekking man will need lightweight clothes that require minimal care; the tailored suits are treated with pleated pressing after being sewn, which means that the vertical wrinkles create a clean sharp look that needs no ironing. Ain’t nobody got time for that.
Best in show: The house revisited its classic double face cotton textile, which has been a constant in the collections since the 1970s. And, taking inspiration from the dryness of the desert, treated cut-jacquard woven with wool, polyester and cotton to create ripple textures. In contrast to last season, there was less billowing. S/S 2018 made a stronger statement for what to wear in the wilderness. A shrunken opera coat-cum-bomber jacket had a utilitarian drama.
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Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
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Gingerbread City: architects sculpt London out of the season's favourite treatUntil December 29 in Chelsea, see London brought to life in a seasonal-appropriate medium by leading architects and designers
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New Revox B77 MK III reel-to-reel tape recorder, and more cassette tape-based trickeryThe new Revox B77 MK III might be the ultimate analogue flex. In response, we’ve explored the outer reaches of cassette tape design
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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In Memoriam: Issey Miyake (1938 – 2022)We remember fashion designer Issey Miyake, who has died aged 84
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The story behind Bao Bao Issey Miyake’s high-precision ‘Dazzle’ bagsCreated using micron-level injection moulding, Bao Bao Issey Miyake’s new ‘Dazzle’ series marks the latest chapter in the Japanese brand’s uniquely recognisable accessories
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
