Mood board: A proud display of hetero-elegance is distinctly provocative at a time when elsewhere, menswear is making way for a radical revision of masculinity: from the rich, lustrous textiles and frills at Gucci to the queer club-kid get-up of London label Art School. Mr Armani has been at the front line of sensuality with a butch machismo for decades – his models are square-jawed and floppy haired. They have an aromatic brawn.
Best in show: For S/S 2019 the designer presented a wardrobe that was both genteel and freeing. Double-breasted jackets featured, softened from their upright, sartorial stiffness and worn in ways that were easy and relaxed. He offered tailoring for the beach; blousons for the boardroom. Classic Armani looks were re-proportioned, shoulders slightly oversized, trousers wide and turned up at the hem.
Finishing touches: Armani’s gorgeous greiges were here in vibrant, lighter hues: from chalky white – like cliffs by the sea – to natural hemp grey. Lightweight fabrics in blue with turquoise, jade green and sand encouraged a more sun-bleached, sunny look. There was heritage and humour too. Armani’s portrait was embroidered on a black backpack, whilst sweatshirts reintroduced the rounded GA logo from the eighties. It’s the athletic gracefulness we want from the man who invented modern tailoring.
Armani S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Armani S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Armani S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Armani S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
After the floods, Valencia’s design community unitesValencia's design community launches ‘Auction for Action’ and 'Interioristas en Acción' (IED), initiatives to raise money for those effected by the floods in Spain
-
In Helsinki, Pauline Curnier Jardin has created the grotesque amusement park of her dreamsFrench artist Pauline Curnier Jardin celebrates otherness at Kiasma, Helsinki’s Museum of Contemporary Art
-
A celestial New York exhibition showcases Roman and Williams’ mastery of lightingLauded design studio Roman and Williams is exhibiting 100 variations of its lighting ‘family tree’ inside a historic Tribeca space
-
First look at Our Legacy’s cat-adorned Emporio Armani collaborationFeline forms appear throughout a new collection from Emporio Armani and Swedish brand Our Legacy (out 17 November 2023), combining the brands’ unique aesthetics
-
Giorgio Armani’s tennis-inspired collection celebrates a longtime love of the gameThe Giorgio Armani Tennis Classic at London’s Hurlingham Club brought together the game’s biggest stars in the run-up to Wimbledon. In celebration, the house has created a capsule collection that mines tennis’ traditional dress codes for inspiration
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2021: designers riff on romp and relaxationMilan Fashion Week offered a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Fendi, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino and Giorgio Armani
-
Sweats and sequins: the duality of dressing at Milan Fashion Week S/S 2021Brands from Dolce & Gabbana to Valentino considered post pandemic dressing, with escapist and pragmatic silhouettes presented with aplomb
-
A decade of fashion show history in picturesBritish photographer Jason Lloyd Evans shares his favourite backstage images, from the runway shows of Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel, Armani, Proenza Schouler, Versace and more
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
