Dries Van Noten at Paris Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2019
Mood board: Dries Van Noten has operated proudly as an independent designer in his native Belgium for more than three decades. Early this month however, he sold a majority stake of his business to the Spanish-based group Puig and he will remain Chief Creative Officer. There was no obvious affect to his S/S 2019 show. The silhouette had a rigour that felt modern and confident. There were no discernible sports/streetwear references, no logos, no fugly trainers. Van Noten is still comfortably outside of the seasonal clatter. The shapes were all taken from workwear. Dialled down, they become canvases for seasonal play with print, colour and textile.
Best in show: Form versus function as utilitarian uniforms are subverted with unexpected textile. Oversized parkas, roomy coveralls and casual double-breasted tailoring come in easy cottons and linens and in high-shine, glossy nylon too. The look is unfussy. Models wore toned down accessories in pony skin. Sandals are in raffia and rubber – bumbags in high-shine nylon.
Team work: Van Noten unveiled a creative partnership with the estate of Danish architect and designer, Verner Panton, whose pop psychedelic interiors and furniture defined much of the Scandinavian design we love today. And he’s having a real moment. In Milan, Miuicca Prada and AMO reissued Panton’s ‘Inflatable Stool’ from the early 1960s, installing rows of them as the seating for her S/S 2019 show. Van Noten worked with Panton’s estate too and was granted permission to adapt some of his textile designs. The collection used photographic versions of Panton’s iconic works including the trippy Welle (Wave) pattern of undulating colours dating from the 1970s. Special labels sewn into the garments detail the collaboration, which is the estate’s – and fashion’s – first.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
After the floods, Valencia’s design community unites
Valencia's design community launches ‘Auction for Action’ and 'Interioristas en Acción' (IED), initiatives to raise money for those effected by the floods in Spain
By Suzanne Wales Published
-
In Helsinki, Pauline Curnier Jardin has created the grotesque amusement park of her dreams
French artist Pauline Curnier Jardin celebrates otherness at Kiasma, Helsinki’s Museum of Contemporary Art
By Alison Hugill Published
-
A celestial New York exhibition showcases Roman and Williams’ mastery of lighting
Lauded design studio Roman and Williams is exhibiting 100 variations of its lighting ‘family tree’ inside a historic Tribeca space
By Dan Howarth Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated