Mood board: Dries Van Noten has operated proudly as an independent designer in his native Belgium for more than three decades. Early this month however, he sold a majority stake of his business to the Spanish-based group Puig and he will remain Chief Creative Officer. There was no obvious affect to his S/S 2019 show. The silhouette had a rigour that felt modern and confident. There were no discernible sports/streetwear references, no logos, no fugly trainers. Van Noten is still comfortably outside of the seasonal clatter. The shapes were all taken from workwear. Dialled down, they become canvases for seasonal play with print, colour and textile.
Best in show: Form versus function as utilitarian uniforms are subverted with unexpected textile. Oversized parkas, roomy coveralls and casual double-breasted tailoring come in easy cottons and linens and in high-shine, glossy nylon too. The look is unfussy. Models wore toned down accessories in pony skin. Sandals are in raffia and rubber – bumbags in high-shine nylon.
Team work: Van Noten unveiled a creative partnership with the estate of Danish architect and designer, Verner Panton, whose pop psychedelic interiors and furniture defined much of the Scandinavian design we love today. And he’s having a real moment. In Milan, Miuicca Prada and AMO reissued Panton’s ‘Inflatable Stool’ from the early 1960s, installing rows of them as the seating for her S/S 2019 show. Van Noten worked with Panton’s estate too and was granted permission to adapt some of his textile designs. The collection used photographic versions of Panton’s iconic works including the trippy Welle (Wave) pattern of undulating colours dating from the 1970s. Special labels sewn into the garments detail the collaboration, which is the estate’s – and fashion’s – first.
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The Barbican as muse: composer Shiva Feshareki on bringing the brutalist icon to life through musicFor the last two years, British-Iranian experimental composer and turntablist Shiva Feshareki has been drawing on the Barbican’s hidden history as a gateway for her new piece. She talks to Wallpaper* about her Brutalist muse
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London's coolest design-led coffee shops for your Fashion Week fixCoffee shops are the heart of London’s neighbourhoods, discover those fusing speciality beans and stylish interiors for the perfect brew
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Martine Rose’s first gallery show celebrates the radical queer energy of Bronski BeatTaking place at Sadie Coles over London Fashion Week, ‘Everything Must Change’ centres on a 2016 short film by menswear designer Martine Rose and image-maker Sharna Osborne starring Bronski Beat frontman Jimmy Somerville
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
