Mood board: Mark Weston’s second catwalk show for the brand opened with a wide cut, navy double breasted blazer with concealed buttons worn with a skinny pair of black trousers. A split at the hem revealed a pair of almond tipped, heeled loafers. Weston said he wanted to subvert classic menswear clothing codes, albeit in a subtle way. His rigorous silhouettes pack a punch. He explored an 1980s idea of aspiration, focusing on the all-important power clothing with its padded bravura and confident, casual sportswear. Easy wrapped tailoring replaced a classic double breasted jacket. Split hem trousers gestured towards an eighties tracksuit.
Best in show: The clothes were determined, precise. Weston played with the formal codes to give them a buoyant twist. Standout were the leather pieces; a zip-up unfussy biker jacket had a generous volume which tumbled at the back. Dunhill marble lighters in the archives became the inspiration for the green prints on nylon parkas. There’s a slight perversity to it all too as evening silks have the lustre of technical fabrics. Suiting is layered, longer tailored jackets worn with matching trousers and overcoats as if disrupting the very notion of a three-piece suit.
Sound bite: Weston said: ‘I love the idea of taking silk moiré and cutting it into jackets and formalwear coats but in bombers too. We took some of the tailoring shapes from last season and wanted to carry on and keep those codes there. Something strong in leather, which is this time unlined and in easier blousons shapes. I liked last season’s strong confident energy to the show. This was a continuation of that.’
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2025 highlights: Dolce & Gabbana to Emporio ArmaniDespite a reduced schedule, Milan Fashion Week Men’s arrives this weekend with plenty of intrigue, beginning with high-wattage shows from Dolce & Gabbana and Emporio Armani. Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss reports from Milan
-
Rio Kobayashi’s new furniture bridges eras, shown alongside Fritz Rauh’s midcentury paintings at Blunk SpaceFurniture designer Rio Kobayashi unveils a new series, informed by the paintings of midcentury artist Fritz Rauh, at California’s Blunk Space
-
New York restaurant Locanda Verde’s second outpost will transport you to a different time and placeLocanda Verde’s expansive new Hudson Yards osteria exudes a sophisticated yet intimate atmosphere overflowing with art treasures
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
