Mood board: In the early 1970s when Kenzo Takada started making clothes, he did so with materials bought from flea markets. He was forced to mix different patterned and coloured fabrics together in one garment by way of necessity – it went on to become a signature style. The label which since 2011 has been under the creative direction of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim is known for its prints, patterns and playfulness. ‘Throughout our time at Kenzo, it’s always been our prerogative to bring together the varying tribes and subcultures we come across throughout our every day,’ the duo wrote ahead of the S/S 2019 show.
Scene setting: Thematically, the collections are always upbeat and have a Francophile joie de vivre; the season explores summer gatherings of all sorts from picnics and parties to weddings and festivals. The clothes were cheerful. As is customary amongst many menswear designers, Leon and Lim looked at blending tailoring with sportswear. The mood felt celebratory as the self-appointed bad boys of jazz – the Chicago based Hypnotic Brass Ensemble – performed in the centre of a spiral catwalk, as clouds of flora and laser beams hovered above our heads.
Best in show: Two-button blazers in orange cotton linen mix with a light resin coating were worn with wide-leg draw-string trousers. Sports jackets were sewn into the backs of tailored pieces. Coats were lightweight with deconstructed shoulders in nylon medallion print. Standout were the fine crew neck t-shirts which had trompe-l'œil pyjama collars or ties on their fronts.
Kenzo S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Kenzo S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Kenzo S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Kenzo S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
The creative mind at work: a century of storyboarding at Fondazione PradaFondazione Prada’s 'Osservatorio, A Kind of Language: Storyboards and Other Renderings' features some of the most celebrated names in cinema working from the late 1920s up to 2024
-
A new concept superyacht unfurls, courtesy of Vripack and OceancoExplore Project Lily, a concept superyacht for a new generation of moneyed enthusiasts looking to push the envelope of nautical design
-
Goldwin 0’s latest collection draws on the landscapes of Oregon, the home state of design director Nur AbbasMarking a new chapter for the experimental offshoot of Japanese outdoorwear label Goldwin, Nur Abbas‘ S/S 2025 Goldwin 0 collection draws inspiration from his home state of Oregon, captured in a new photo series released today (21 February 2025)
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Kenzo returns to Galerie Vivienne for Nigo’s A/W 2022 show debutFor his debut, A/W 2022 Kenzo show, the brand’s new creative director Nigo chose Paris’ Galerie Vivienne, the location of founder Kenzo Takada’s first boutique
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
