Mood board: Glenn Martens, fresh from showing his capsule project with Diesel in Milan last week, held the show for his S/S 2019 Y/Project collection in the gardens of la Faculté de Pharmacie de Paris. In a short time, he has become known for his spirited, punkish elegance. The collection for summer was inspired less by a film, person or artwork and more about the process of building silhouettes using classic suiting and sportswear as a base.
Best in show: Season upon season, the label’s tailoring incorporates a second skin in Lycra, giving the jackets and trousers their own kinetic force. This season, Martens wanted to make this element more graphic and so classic suits were wrapped tightly in contrast Lycra, ruched around the shoulders and chest or over the lapels. They said something about the bombastic body. Technical jackets were ruched to the extreme at the neck to look more operatic; jeans were worn layered too, engineered with chap-height gapes at the top of the thigh.
Sound bite: Boxy jean jackets and trousers use a ‘pop out’ 3D construction – the movement and life of garments is important to Martens. The look is meant to be playful. ‘It’s about challenging us. It is about experimentation,’ he said. ‘It’s still about versatility but in a different way. We always used to work with buttoned on layers or sleeves you can take off, but now that attitude has become part of the silhouette. We are still a young brand and we still want to have fun.’
Y/Project S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Y/Project S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Y/Project S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Y/Project S/S 2019. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
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Maserati joins forces with Giorgetti for a turbo-charged relationshipAnnouncing their marriage during Milan Design Week, the brands unveiled a collection, a car and a long term commitment
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Through an innovative new training program, Poltrona Frau aims to safeguard Italian craftThe heritage furniture manufacturer is training a new generation of leather artisans
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
