Oliver Spencer S/S 2020 London Fashion Week Men's

Mood board: Established in 2002, Spencer sought to create a brand that was modern and unstuffy. Today the self-taught tailor has four standalone shops as well as an international online business; his vision is uncomplicated, unpretentious and unfiltered. The relaxed tailoring for which he is known is standout for style and sustainability too. The label has made a commitment to make more ecological choices to reduce its carbon footprint, so organic cottons, linens and cotton/linen blends were the focal point for S/S20. Safari pyjama style suits were smooth and smart.
Scene setting: The show was staged inside a former bullion truck yard turned two-level outdoor food market in Shoreditch. His strong cast sauntered through the space decorated with Chinese paper lanterns in all shapes and sizes; fortune cookies and sweets were piled up onto tables as Spencer recreated the feel of Kowloon’s Temple Street Market at night.
Sound bite: S/S20 was inspired by Wong Kar-wai’s In The Mood For Love. ‘It is simply one of the best films ever made! Three hours of extraordinary filming – a master class in framing and I love him,’ Spencer said backstage. The designer was in Hong Kong for 48 hours last October and was energized by its chaos and contradictions. ‘It was just as a city should be with the romance of the islands, the monochrome skyline and everything else.’ Spencer collaborated with wild fragrance brand Haeckels on a candle with a unique ‘Hong-Kong scent’ for the show, available to purchase through Spencer's Buy Now Vero feed. §
Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Oliver Spencer S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Are ‘jump hour’ watches the most enjoyable trend to come out of Watches and Wonders?
Watches and Wonders 2025 saw new jump hour watches from Bremont, Cartier, Gerald Charles, Hautlence, Svend Andersen and others
By James Gurney Published
-
A bit of all white: Hermès unveils its latest home collections in Milan
Taking up residence once again at La Pelota, Hermès asks Milan Design Week 2025 visitors to consider objects as emotions
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
Elegance personified, the 'Riley' sofa is a handsome beast
A new sofa by Hannes Peer for Minotti has us swooning, not slouching
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated