Oliver Spencer S/S 2020 London Fashion Week Men's
Mood board: Established in 2002, Spencer sought to create a brand that was modern and unstuffy. Today the self-taught tailor has four standalone shops as well as an international online business; his vision is uncomplicated, unpretentious and unfiltered. The relaxed tailoring for which he is known is standout for style and sustainability too. The label has made a commitment to make more ecological choices to reduce its carbon footprint, so organic cottons, linens and cotton/linen blends were the focal point for S/S20. Safari pyjama style suits were smooth and smart.
Scene setting: The show was staged inside a former bullion truck yard turned two-level outdoor food market in Shoreditch. His strong cast sauntered through the space decorated with Chinese paper lanterns in all shapes and sizes; fortune cookies and sweets were piled up onto tables as Spencer recreated the feel of Kowloon’s Temple Street Market at night.
Sound bite: S/S20 was inspired by Wong Kar-wai’s In The Mood For Love. ‘It is simply one of the best films ever made! Three hours of extraordinary filming – a master class in framing and I love him,’ Spencer said backstage. The designer was in Hong Kong for 48 hours last October and was energized by its chaos and contradictions. ‘It was just as a city should be with the romance of the islands, the monochrome skyline and everything else.’ Spencer collaborated with wild fragrance brand Haeckels on a candle with a unique ‘Hong-Kong scent’ for the show, available to purchase through Spencer's Buy Now Vero feed. §
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Year in review: top 10 furniture launches of 2024, as selected by Wallpaper* global design director Hugo Macdonald
The furniture launches that wowed global design director Hugo Macdonald this year
By Hugo Macdonald Published
-
Unboxing beauty products from 2024, as seen on the pages of Wallpaper*
Wallpaper's 2024 beauty picks included Chanel lipstick, Bottega Veneta perfume and solid soap from the likes of Aesop, Celine, Diptyque, Hermès and Sisley
By Hannah Tindle Published
-
The cosiest alpine retreats to book in Europe
Browse the Wallpaper* edit of European alpine retreats where to fully embrace the ski season
By Nicola Leigh Stewart Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated