Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2020 Milan Fashion Week Men's
Mood board: The Dolce & Gabbana brand is synonymous with brute sexiness. S/S 2020 took the codes of Sicily and ‘put them in the jungle,’ as the design-ers said ahead of the show. A lace cardigan had Animalia patches; cockatoos and Bird of Paradise were printed onto silk jackets and trousers. Sporting references ranged from running and tennis to box-ing. The sharpness of the 1950s was evoked in the wide glittery lapels, high waisted trousers and collared knits. Classic Italian floor tiles were used as repeat patterns on silk and cotton separates.
Best in show: The prints were standout – previous seasons have seen a plethora of designs created in homage to the duo’s Italian roots, such as A/W 2019’s coffee bean/espresso cup motif. This season they persevered with playfulness, using bananas, coconuts, pineapple and parrot prints as well as a repeat vintage Bentley drawing. Saucy 1950s pinups and glamour girls appeared on patches attached to safari jackets and on the front of Hawaiian cut shirts. Their smiles beckoned beneath the words: ‘Choose Love’ and ‘Good Vibes Only’. The wide lapel bowling shirts were pure Elvis.
Scene setting: At the head of the runway was a colossal jungle, which trilled as Dinah Washington played loud before the show. The invitation, a printed postcard in leopard print, matched the iconic animal markings wrap-ping the catwalk. A life-sized fibre-glass jaguar and leopard by the Swedish artist Anne Andersson, taken from the designers’ personal collection, stalked the sultry, safari mood.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.
-
Think small, think electric, as Hyundai attempts to revolutionise the classic Indian three-wheeler
Hyundai’s Micro Mobility strategy, in collaboration with Indian manufacturer TVS, has revealed two conceptual takes on small electric urban transport in a bid to cut the country’s crushing pollution issue
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
‘Just beneath the surface there’s another world’: How David Lynch used hair and make-up to create his singular universe
From Blue Velvet and Mulholland Drive to Twin Peaks, David Lynch used hair and make-up in his films as a narrative device, writes Laura Havlin
By Laura Havlin Published
-
Burns Night 2025: where to celebrate in London
It is time to raise a wee dram to Scotland’s national poet Robert Burns on Burns Night (25 January). Here is our pick of places to enjoy an evening of generous speechmaking, toasting, and drinking around London
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Giant cats, Madonna wigs, pints of Guinness: seven objects that tell the story of fashion in 2024
These objects tell an unconventional story of style in 2024, a year when the ephemera that populated designers’ universes was as intriguing as the collections themselves
By Jack Moss Published
-
‘Irving Penn: Centennial’ offers an unparalleled look at the seminal American photographer’s oeuvre
A new retrospective in A Coruña, Spain celebrates the meticulous grandeur of Irving Penn, spanning fashion editorial, still-life, nudes and portraiture across seven decades
By Jack Moss Published
-
‘He made something not merely popular, but the rage’: unpacking Elio Fiorucci’s fabulous fashion legacy
An expansive new retrospective at Triennale Milano explores the colourful life and work of Elio Fiorucci, who is synonymous with 1970s hedonism and glamour
By Zoe Whitfield Published
-
How fashion designer Ilenia Durazzi designed her ‘elegant, rigorous’ Milanese studio – all the way down to the furniture
Ilenia Durazzi of Durazzi Milano tells Wallpaper* the story behind her new Milanese studio, a labour of love built entirely to her exacting design
By Jack Moss Published
-
The Wallpaper* S/S 2025 trend report: ‘A rejection of the derivative and the expected’
Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss unpacks five trends and takeaways from the S/S 2025 shows, which paid ode to individual style and transformed the everyday
By Jack Moss Published
-
Inside the making of Loewe Perfumes’ porcelain bottle toppers, delicately crafted by Lladró
Loewe Perfumes’ limited edition flask toppers are crafted by Spanish porcelain company Lladró. Mary Cleary takes a look inside the making process, as featured in the October 2024 issue of Wallpaper*
By Mary Cleary Published
-
‘There are no shortcuts’: Ten years of Hereu, the cult Spanish shoe brand where craft is front and centre
Dal Chodha visits Barcelona-based shoe and accessory brand Hereu as it reaches a milestone decade in business
By Dal Chodha Published
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2025 highlights: Dolce & Gabbana to Bottega Veneta
Wallpaper* fashion features editor Jack Moss selects the best of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2025, from Dolce & Gabbana’s homage to Madonna to childlike wonder at Bottega Veneta
By Jack Moss Last updated