Mood board: Kim Jones’s S/S 2020 show felt confident and courteous to what has passed. The collection was framed around a collaboration with the American artist Daniel Arsham, known for his ‘Future Relic’ series (2013–2018) in which he imagines an array of everyday objects as archaeological discoveries from a future world. Arsham had previously worked with Dior on a series of window installations in 2011, when Kris Van Assche was at the helm. For Jones, he installed pieces around the show space that continued his dystopian thinking. In the middle, giant stone letters spelled out D-I-O-R with purple stalagmites and precious stones bursting through. The old breaking through the new; the archive breaking out of itself and into the future. S/S 2020 had a desert-faring mood too. Models walked on degrade sand that went from pink to white.
Best in show: Last season, the models stood on a 72-m-long conveyor belt, mirroring the heroic poses of neighbouring statues in the Tuileries Garden. This season, the sculptural approach influenced the clothes again. Shapes were supple and gently structured. Leather garments bonded and then sliced. Satin drapes wrapped around the body in an elegant, fluid continuation from last season. Half lapels on jackets fell into degrade scarves. Tone-on-tone Dior oblique monogram hinted at bas-relief. Sun-bleached neutrals and sheer fabrics lent the collection a sensual mood and sheer organza coveralls and t-shirts were worn layered. Newsprint socks revealed themselves underneath clear shoes and desert boots.
Team work: Models carried aluminium backpacks, hand cases and suitcases produced in partnership with eminent German luggage brand RIMOWA. The Dior oblique motif is inscribed onto the aluminium casing. A picnic case had a nook for a bottle of champagne. Elsewhere, in a nod to the brand’s history, Arsham has redesigned Galliano’s iconic newspaper print first introduced in the S/S 00 Haute Couture collection, and recast, eroded and remade Yoon Ahn’s jewellery designs as long-buried, modern relics.
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The Park: step inside Jeremy King's mid-century dinerOne of several 2024 openings from restauranteur, Jeremy King, food critic Ben McCormack books in at The Park
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Six brilliant bars for your 2025 celebrations, hot off the Wallpaper* travel deskWallpaper’s most-read bar reviews of the year can't be wrong: here’s inspiration for your festive and new year plans, from a swanky Las Vegas lounge to a minimalist London drinking den
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Misfires and Monstrosities: three vehicular design disasters that show taste is in retreatFrom a multi-million dollar piece merchandise to a wretched Rolls-Royce, these are the low points of the year in transportation design
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Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
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‘Modern beauty’: Pieter Mulier on his new vision for AlaïaAs creative director of Alaïa, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier honours the timeless vision of the maison’s founder while rewriting the past anew. Here, speaking to Jack Moss, he tells the story behind his first year at the house
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Mariella Bettineschi’s feminist artworks survey guests at Dior A/W 2022 showAs guests gathered at Dior’s A/W 2022 womenswear show venue in Paris, sets of duplicated eyes stared down at them from the artworks of Mariella Bettineschi
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
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Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 showDior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
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Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2022: Louis Vuitton to Loewe, Dior to HermèsIn this extended report, Laura Hawkins reveals 9 highlights from Paris Fashion Week Men's A/W 2022. Including: Virgil Abloh's final collection for Louis Vuitton; Rick Owen's riff on sleaze; elfin-inspired accessories; and a celebration of slouch and surrealism
