Scene setting: Back in April, the artist Linda Tegg a living installation entitled ‘Adjacent Fields’ inside Jil Sander’s Milan HQ, using plants and weeds gathered from around the city. Tegg visited Milan's abandoned industrial sites with garden designer Matteo Foschi to source material. For the brand’s S/S 2020 show, the models walked down the side of a large frosted panel wall lined with foliage and plants. As they turned on the catwalk, their shadows receded backstage.
Mood board: Since arriving at the label in 2017, Lucie and Luke Meier have had to negotiate an immense legacy – one weighted in minimalism, fluidity and purity of line. The precision that its namesake founder lived by was here for S/S 2020 but in a more soulful, softer way. For summer the duo gave the line a fluidity, although there was a sharp nonchalance in the stiff Japanese cotton V-neck shirts with an open neckline. The touch of the human hand, of craft, was there in the trailing hand-crocheted fringing on cotton sweaters and the embroidered frame pocket details on rigid shirts.
Best in show: Jackets in summer wool had slim notched lapels folded inward. Cotton/linen tailored topcoats and shirt-jackets conveyed a formal simplicity. Epaulets dropped down to hug the shoulders on a sleeveless coat. Generous volumes have been the mainstay of the summer shows as both Qasimi and Valentino both offered a take on the djellaba. The Meiers' offered longer length shirts split at the sides. These generous volumes suggest an airy, roomy luxury.
Jil Sander Men’s S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Jil Sander Men’s S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Jil Sander Men’s S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Jil Sander Men’s S/S 2020. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022: ‘Fendace' to FerragamoFashion Week returns to form in the Italian home of style and design. Here is everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Jil Sander on the purist principles of her Uniqlo collaborationIn celebration of +J, Wallpaper's quality maniac-at-large Nick Vinson speaks to Jil Sander about her upcoming A/W 2020 collaboration with Uniqlo
-
The aesthetic intimacy of Jil Sander's S/S 2021 collectionCreative directors Lucie and Luke Meier on the ‘purity of image' behind the brand's pared-back spring film, directed by Stephen Kidd
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
