Mood board: ‘I wanted this to be something that was romantic,’ JW Anderson said of his elegant S/S 2020 collection. The djellabas in suede, the crisp white sailor suiting and washed silk dungarees emanated a youthful, nomadic ease, something the designer said ‘felt nymphlike’. Stiff silk organza was sculpted info floral broaches, attached behind the ears, their feather stems twitching as the models walked. ‘I wanted something that was more of a kind of dreamscape, like there was an effortlessness to it – this is what the brand is about. It’s sensual. It’s light’ – all of the key codes that Anderson has been building on for the last six years. It evoked a 1970s resort fluency. The flap of the house’s oro ‘cashmere’ suede ushered in the minimal, reductivist look.
Scene setting: Short suits in layers of poplin and voile, denim duffle coats and dhoti-like trousers were rooted in a bohemian, travelling spirit. ‘I wanted it to feel like Alice in Wonderland, like you could just tumble away. You could go to the beach or you could not go to the beach,’ he said. Guests sat on Knoll’s re-issue of Eero Saarinen’s Conference Chair, made for Maison de l’UNESCO in 2018. Nine video works by the British artist Hilary Lloyd were installed in the centre of the auditorium. Made between 2008-2017, they muse on natural and constructed worlds; the hyper-corporeal. ‘I wanted something to relate to this childlike dreamstate that I think we’re all in, this non-reality. The idea of the screen, the look,’ Anderson said.
Sound bite: Standouts were the textiles, made using a global network of craftspeople. Caftans were offered in hand-embroidered red and white cotton made in Bangladesh to hand-dyed and woven indigo cloth created by artisans in Burkina Faso. ‘I wanted to look back to the era when the brand became something in the 1970s. With the success of Paula’s Ibiza shop, there is this something of cotton meeting linen. As much as this is fashion, it’s rooted in the brand’s heritage. I feel like we’ve enhanced the past but made it for the future.’
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Indian studio Compartment S4 celebrates architectural collaborationCompartment S4, the Indian architecture studio out of Ahmedabad and Mumbai, is true to its collective nature
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A revamped Edinburgh apartment combines Californian-style modernism with modern craftArcher + Braun have transformed an apartment in a historic house with finely tuned contemporary additions and sympathetic attention to detail
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Formafantasma’s biodiversity-boosting installation in a Perrier Jouët vineyard is cross-pollination at its bestFormafantasma and Perrier Jouët unveil the first project in their ‘Cohabitare’ initiative, ‘not only a work of art but also a contribution to the ecosystem’
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Men's knitwear designs: wearable works of art?These knitwear designs for spring ensure we're wearing our art on our sleeve
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2021: discotheque chic to apres-ski sleek -
Walk this way: navigating S/S 2021's Paris Fashion WeekHow the City of Lights looked to the sartorial realities of our much changed lifestyles
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
