Mood board: Guests sat on pressed plywood and MDF boxes that slotted over the seat of French bar chairs, interrupting the black lacquer spindles with a hard modern line. The floor was strewn with haphazard rugs, embodying creative director Chitose Abe’s hybrid approach. Abe started the season musing on Dude’s observation from The Big Lebowski: ’That rug really tied the room together.’ It underlined her modular aesthetic, to jumble familiar forms and archetypes into complex, layered pieces. The traditional met the techno.
Best in show: The merging together of recognisable staples tricked the eye. Abe’s clothes had a studied playfulness and there was a certain nonchalance to her military jackets cut into shirts and the cable knit jumpers spliced into zip-up sports jackets. An over-sized denim jacket was attached to a shrunken version of the same; a child’s size MA1 jacket was lain over an over-sized adult version. Each piece was meticulously engineered. Cuffs from a denim jacket were cut off and applied to a striped shirt. Suit lining was used for sleeves, trouser hems interrupted with bands of contrasting fabric.
Team work: Prints – sourced from the archives of Hawaiian shirt legend Duke Kahanamoku – appeared on shirting, trousers and outerwear. The sense of the sea and the spirit of adventure was in the air. Models wore t-shirts made from a newly developed Brewed Protein Blended sustainable fabric by Japanese bio-tech research lab Spiber. Their fronts featured ‘One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind’ graphics by Fabien Baron. New for S/S 2020 was a patchwork mountaineering pant made with Gramicci.
Sacai S/S 2020 Paris Men's. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Sacai S/S 2020 Paris Men's. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Sacai S/S 2020 Paris Men's. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Sacai S/S 2020 Paris Men's. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
A celestial New York exhibition showcases Roman and Williams’ mastery of lightingLauded design studio Roman and Williams is exhibiting 100 variations of its lighting ‘family tree’ inside a historic Tribeca space
-
‘He immortalised the birth of the supermodel’: inside Dior’s career-spanning retrospective of photographer Peter LindberghOlivier Flaviano, curator and head of Paris’ La Galerie Dior, talks us through a new Peter Lindbergh retrospective, which celebrates the seminal German photographer’s longtime relationship with the French house
-
Take a bite: Laila Gohar and The Luxury Collection’s ‘Cakes & Candles’ are a sweet treat for the sensesLaila Gohar’s six cake-inspired candles draw on The Luxury Collection’s hotels around the world – where guests can enjoy matching edible confections
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
