Eudon Choi A/W 2014
The opening show to London Fashion Week took the name of 'Hysteria', a theme that extended outside of Somerset House's main tent too, thanks to the sideways rain that washed away the fast fame hopes of many a drenched street style poser. Once seated, a black-and-white photography projection of frenzied female fans from 1960s Brit pop culture greeted us with their high-pitched squeals. Was this set to be a counterculture Youthquake? As the lights came up, it was clear that Choi had smartly ducked any 'swinging' clichés, instead championing the Mod-era's silhouettes with a youthful modernity. Shaking things up, plaid peacoats and Prince of Wales-check capes were cut with a cool slouch, thanks to their rounded backs and double-breasted fastenings, just as the designer added a masculine edge to his shifts and baby doll dresses, by inserting fluted cotton collars. Choi's girl may have paid homage to the Sixties' most famous groupies, Anita Pallenberg and Marianne Faithfull, but her grey Mongolian shearling shrug, nonchalantly draped over crisp white shirting and later a plaid trench, was a sure mover and shaker, rather than a follower. So were the Korean designer's cropped cigarette pants, cut for the physique of a Rolling Stone, and finished with fringed, tri-colour Cuban heeled loafers - designed in collaboration with Joanne Stoker. Their colour-blocked hues reminiscent of Sixties interiors could have led Choi into muddy waters, but paired with A/W's man-style tailoring, they're sure to attract a fan base all of their own - if they can outsmart the crowd already waiting for his finale winter white onesie that is.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Glenn Martens is headed to Maison Margiela as the house’s new creative director
The former Y/Project designer and current Diesel creative director will replace John Galliano, who exited the Maison Margiela in late 2024
By Jack Moss Published
-
Glamping on the Greek riviera: an alternative resort rooted in luxury
We check in at the 91 Athens Riviera; an alternative seaside glamping resort in the Greek capital that is all about relaxed luxury
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, Saint Laurent’s surprise menswear show captured ‘a menacing, seductive elegance’
Staged at Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Anthony Vaccarello mashed up Rive Gauche elegance with Robert Mapplethorpe-inspired kink for his A/W 2025 Saint Laurent menswear collection
By Jack Moss Published
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind café
Wallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
By Jack Moss Published
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UK
As A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
By Jack Moss Published
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019
By Dal Chodha Published
-
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine Rose
Though slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft Week
During London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
By Hannah Silver Last updated
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimono
For the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
By Grace Cook Last updated
-
Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated