The opening show to London Fashion Week took the name of 'Hysteria', a theme that extended outside of Somerset House's main tent too, thanks to the sideways rain that washed away the fast fame hopes of many a drenched street style poser. Once seated, a black-and-white photography projection of frenzied female fans from 1960s Brit pop culture greeted us with their high-pitched squeals. Was this set to be a counterculture Youthquake? As the lights came up, it was clear that Choi had smartly ducked any 'swinging' clichés, instead championing the Mod-era's silhouettes with a youthful modernity. Shaking things up, plaid peacoats and Prince of Wales-check capes were cut with a cool slouch, thanks to their rounded backs and double-breasted fastenings, just as the designer added a masculine edge to his shifts and baby doll dresses, by inserting fluted cotton collars. Choi's girl may have paid homage to the Sixties' most famous groupies, Anita Pallenberg and Marianne Faithfull, but her grey Mongolian shearling shrug, nonchalantly draped over crisp white shirting and later a plaid trench, was a sure mover and shaker, rather than a follower. So were the Korean designer's cropped cigarette pants, cut for the physique of a Rolling Stone, and finished with fringed, tri-colour Cuban heeled loafers - designed in collaboration with Joanne Stoker. Their colour-blocked hues reminiscent of Sixties interiors could have led Choi into muddy waters, but paired with A/W's man-style tailoring, they're sure to attract a fan base all of their own - if they can outsmart the crowd already waiting for his finale winter white onesie that is.
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Nina Runsdorf brings classic jewellery back to life to mark 20 yearsNew York-based jewellery designer Nina Runsdorf celebrates her eponymous brand’s anniversary with a new jewellery collection, ‘Archive’
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Enter the world of Cave Bureau, and its architectural and geological explorationsNairobi practice Cave Bureau explores architecture’s role in the geological afterlives of colonialism, as part of a team exhibiting at the British pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025
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All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
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Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
