For Mary Katrantzou, A/W was about symbolism, insignias, coats of arms and languages of codes, colours and motifs that inform belief. What it was not about was print, and the designer should be applauded for taking that leap this season. Katrantzou's intricately constructed dresses and gowns pulled towards her Grecian roots - linked by ancient medallions (or if you like, the embroidered badges awarded to Scouts or Girl Guides) - remixed through the designer's 'lexicon of luxury'. In Katranztou's hands these motifs were engineered into the most complex of appliqués, laces and brocades. The designer also flew the flag for goddess dressing, with asymmetrical pleating, victoriously draped over one shoulder or inserted into warrior-like pteruges skirts. This linear effect allowed room for her demi-couture needlework to breathe (she's clearly been back to Lesage), before chain mail was unleashed. As her armoured models marched down the runway, there was no doubt that it was a world away from the designer's digital beginnings. Yet no one seemed to care in the slightest, which Katrantzou should take as a sign in itself: a sign of triumph.
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The new Frederic Church Center at Olana complements its leafy Upstate New York siteTour the Frederic Church Center for Architecture and Landscape, now open at Olana, a historic site in Upstate New York, courtesy of architecture studio ARO
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Out of office: what the Wallpaper editors have been doing this weekA week of jetsetting has seen the editors in Tokyo, Milan, Vienna, Miami, New York and drinking Guinness with Jonathan Anderson in London
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The Living Places experiment: how can architecture foster future wellbeing?Research initiative Living Places Copenhagen tests ideas around internal comfort and sustainable architecture standards to push the envelope on how contemporary homes and cities can be designed with wellness at their heart
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
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Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
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Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London -
V&A spotlights the sartorial and social significance of the kimonoFor the latest endeavour of London's Victoria and Albert Museum, Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk explores the evolution of the iconic Japanese garment
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Erdem A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's -
Christopher Kane A/W 2020 London Fashion Week Women's
