This season, recent Wallpaper* Design Award winner Simone Rocha shot a rebellious streak into her Elizabethan-inspired collection, once again uniting her unique blend of contemporary cool with stealth-luxe sophistication. On the runway at the Tate Modern, meticulously finished bonded wool coats with engorged ruffled sleeves were finished with encrusted amber beads. These clusters were then extended to the scooping necklines of full-skirted black wool dresses. On one, the tightly beaded clusters continued down to the top of the dress' ruffled skirt, marking out where the era's corset traditionally ended, and would also go on to jewel fawn-hued fur. The thing about Rocha is that she does edgy elegantly, whether it be A/W's black pony skin skirt suits, a bomber of yellow snakeskin - which also covered pointed slippers, lace-up boots and her updated brogue - or gold embellished tartan. One look had ruffles protruding from a tube top, fusing Rocha's innocent schoolgirl and punk anarchist aesthetics. And, as usual, her fabrics were impeccable. A grown-up red mini-crini dress, cut from latticed brushed wool and tulle, was spliced in the middle, with a flash of skin smartly restoring the designer's youth appeal. Her signature high-tech metallic finish was also in the mix, drawn into 'The Tudors' theme by brushing up against a plush fur gilet. Just as many of her queenly models wore a beaded tiara on top of their braided de-wigged hair.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Glamping on the Greek riviera: an alternative resort rooted in luxuryWe check in at the 91 Athens Riviera; an alternative seaside glamping resort in the Greek capital that is all about relaxed luxury
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Inspired by Robert Mapplethorpe, Saint Laurent’s surprise menswear show captured ‘a menacing, seductive elegance’Staged at Paris’ Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection, Anthony Vaccarello mashed up Rive Gauche elegance with Robert Mapplethorpe-inspired kink for his A/W 2025 Saint Laurent menswear collection
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Armani Privé celebrates 20 years with a glittering show staged at the house’s opulent new Paris palazzo‘Creating is my reason for existing,’ says the 90-year-old Giorgio Armani, whose Armani Privé show in Paris last night (28 January 2025) was a shimmering ode to the art of haute couture
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Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
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Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
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Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
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London Fashion Week A/W 2021: the future of post-pandemic dressingLondon Fashion Week's first digial only-offering imagined a wardrobe for life after lockdown, by brands including Burberry, Simone Rocha and Priya Ahluwalia
