The scalding ring of fire that curved around a pool of water at the Roberto Cavalli show ignited a fierce setting for the Florentine designer's tribal infused show. As the models strutted out in vacuum sucked python pants and jackets trimmed with fox collars, one could almost imagine them hooting and hollering on their stiletto pin-heels like ancient warriors giving thanks to the gods before the flames. In reality, the Cavalli woman will shower her thanks directly on Roberto next winter as the designer delivered a fantastic fusion of roaring wild kingdom sexiness and 1920s chic. Much like last season, the silhouettes were planted in the jazz age where drop-waist flapper dresses created a refined, but highly spirited look. Cavalli brought his own unique flavour to these classic shapes by cutting the fringe from every leather, skin, feather and fur he could get his animal loving hands on. Similarly speaking, printing and metal studding created intricate patterns over the clothes, adding to the indigenous vibe. But these clothes were anything but primitive: a chinchilla coat with alligator arms, leather studded flapper fringe, pierced and punched to oblivion, and a finale of crunchy bead-embroidered sheer gowns, all screamed modern civilization.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Nina Runsdorf brings classic jewellery back to life to mark 20 yearsNew York-based jewellery designer Nina Runsdorf celebrates her eponymous brand’s anniversary with a new jewellery collection, ‘Archive’
-
Enter the world of Cave Bureau, and its architectural and geological explorationsNairobi practice Cave Bureau explores architecture’s role in the geological afterlives of colonialism, as part of a team exhibiting at the British pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025
-
All-In is the Paris-based label making full-force fashion for main character dressingPart of our monthly Uprising series, Wallpaper* meets Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø of All-In, the LVMH Prize-nominated label which bases its collections on a riotous cast of characters – real and imagined
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Bottega Veneta A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Ports 1961 A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
BOSS A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Dolce & Gabbana A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's -
Salvatore Ferragamo A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
