Comme des Garçons A/W 2014

Knitwear is having a particularly bright moment for Winter, but so far no one has tackled it with as much imagination or fantasy as Rei Kawakubo. That's the Rei way, of course, but it is still a scintillating experience every time we sit down to watch her mastery unfold on the runway. In a way, this season's exercise picked up from where she let off for Spring, with intriguing, organic forms that seemed as though they were made from knots of inflated material. But this time she used dense, woolly knitwear. Though there were no inner tubes this time round, we did get a walking human igloo and a tent-like abode with the models' printed Lycra legs and a flash of spangled sequin pants carrying it down the runway. All of this was brilliantly illuminated by an intricate lighting project that swung down over the runway on cables, designed by frequent Comme collaborator, Thierry Dreyfus. Kawakubo often employed what looked liked stuffed knee socks to create twisted structures around the body; sometimes so intricate they looked like floating rafts. Alternatively, she hung enormous strands of knitted braiding and cable off the models' shoulders. Instead of a so-called daddy long-legs, we were confronted with a mommy long-arms: a magnificent creature that sprung from the exceptionally bright mind of Rei Kawakubo.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
JJ Martin
-
Must-visit cinemas with award-worthy design
Creativity leaps the screen at these design-led cinemas, from Busan Cinema Centre’s record-flying roof to The Gem Cinema Jaipur’s art deco allure
By Sofia de la Cruz Published
-
The modernist home of musician Imogen Holst gets Grade II listing
The daughter of the composer Gustav Holst lived here from 1964 until her death, during which time the home served a locus for her own composition work, which included assisting Benjamin Britten
By Anna Solomon Published
-
This fun and free-spirited photography exhibition offers a chromatic view on the world
‘Chromotherapia’ at Villa Medici in Rome, explores how we view colour as a way of therapy, and how it has shaped photography over the last century (until 9 June 2025)
By Tianna Williams Published
-
Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France Femmes
Marking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu Miu
In this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
By Jack Moss Last updated
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear shows
From giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Y/Project A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
By Laura Hawkins Last updated
-
Alexander McQueen A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s
By Laura Hawkins Last updated