This season Moncler Gamme Rouge took a different tack creatively, starting with its show set, which was stripped of its former life-sized ski chair lifts and James Bond-esque action heroes. Like the more reserved set, the clothes also looked different. Giambattista Valli normally brings his couture-like techniques and elaborate constructions to this Milan-based outerwear brand, but this season, he eschewed almost all of the highbrow gloss and instead looked to the street. The outerwear silhouettes were boxy but basic, deflated from their normally voluminous shapes as if pricked by a pin. Lycra leggings, flat slip-on rubber-soled shoes and sweatshirt dresses and jackets gave the looks a decisively sporty air. And although Valli dabbled in rich astrakhan, leather and fox panelling, many of the coats were trimmed in dashed block lines, typically reserved for the street pavement. The overall effect was one of practicality. In fact, the runway at Moncler Gamme Rouge all of a sudden started to look a lot like the real-way. Of course, there were still several items to lose one's head in, like the two-piece camouflage sweat suits crusted entirely in sparkling micro paillettes, or the sweatshirt dress crusted in silver nail-like studding.
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Year in review: top 10 design stories of 2024Wallpaper* magazine's 10 most-read design stories of 2024 whisk us from fun Ikea pieces to the man who designed the Paris Olympics, and 50 years of the Rubik's Cube
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Sharon Smith's Polaroids capture 1980s New York nightlifeIDEA Books has launched a new monograph of Smith’s photographs, titled Camera Girl and edited by former editor-in-chief of LIFE magazine, Bill Shapiro
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A multifaceted Beverly Hills house puts the beauty of potentiality in the frameA Beverly Hills house in Trousdale, designed by Robin Donaldson, brings big ideas to the residential scale
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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Inside JW Anderson’s dreamy, colour-soaked collaboration with MonclerMade to ‘entertain the eye’, Jonathan Anderson’s third collaboration with Moncler is a dreamlike outing defined by the designer’s deft use of colour
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
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Louis Vuitton A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's -
Chanel A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women’s -
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Sacai A/W 2020 Paris Fashion Week Women's
