Mood board: London Fashion Week was off and racing at JW Anderson's A/W presentation that dove straight into the era of excess. In New York, the Seventies had its moment to shine, but here Anderson moved a decade on, stealing the spotlight with his retro-tinged fabrics and silhouettes. Ribbed Lurex knits met buffed leather wrap skirts, as funnel-necked dévoré peplum blouses were teamed with metal fringe skirts and layered over spray-on cord pants. Lest we forget oversized Coogi-style swirl sweaters, kimono sleeved coats and Perspex triangle earrings that completed the Eighties avalanche.
Best in show: There's no doubt that Anderson has a way with leather, which we witnessed most recently during his Loewe S/S 2015 debut, and he continued to showcase that expertise here with balloon-sleeved leather wrap dresses that were gathered into oversized Perspex belt buckles. These looks possessed a structural stiffness at the shoulder, yet softened as they drew into the waist, and represented the play with esoteric proportions that we've come to expect from him.
Finishing touches: Ruched, leather scrunch boots (in red, grey and lemon no less) sealed Anderson's boom era romp that came complete with block heels and metal ankle-bone spurs for a little extra kick.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
‘There's a lot to fear and a lot to love in this world’: Penny Goring unveils new work in LondonA new collection of large-scale collages takes centre stage at 'Penny Goring: Cold Hunt Corsage' at Arcadia Missa, London
-
Prada A/W25’s ‘dishevelled’ beauty look confronted the big tech algorithmAt Prada A/W25, Guido Palau and Lynsey Alexander subverted prescriptive codes of ‘femininity’ through hair and make-up
-
Alberto Caliri’s new vision for Missoni: ‘It’s about getting back to an essence’The Missoni mainstay has been part of the knitwear brand’s story since 1998. ‘The feeling was not one of radical change, but rather of return,’ he tells Wallpaper* of his first collection back in the creative director seat
-
Inside Louis Vuitton’s Murakami London pop-up, a colourful cartoon wonderland with one-of-a-kind caféWallpaper* takes a tour of the Louis Vuitton x Murakami pop-up in London’s Soho, which celebrates the launch of a new ‘re-edition’ accessories collection spanning the greatest hits from the Japanese artist’s long-running collaboration with the house
-
Get to know Issey Miyake’s innovative A-POC ABLE line as it arrives in the UKAs A-POC ABLE Issey Miyake launches in London this week, designer Yoshiyuki Miyamae gives Wallpaper* the lowdown on the experimental Issey Miyake offshoot
-
Margaret Howell London Fashion Week Women's S/S 2019 -
London Fashion Week S/S 2023: Ahluwalia to Martine RoseThough slimmed-down, London Fashion Week nonetheless provided the moments of creative expression the city is known for – from Ahluwalia’s ode to Africa to Martine Rose’s much-anticipated runway return
-
Inside JW Anderson’s dreamy, colour-soaked collaboration with MonclerMade to ‘entertain the eye’, Jonathan Anderson’s third collaboration with Moncler is a dreamlike outing defined by the designer’s deft use of colour
-
Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022: Prada to FendiA Prada catwalk peppered with Hollywood stars; menswear's new erogenous zones and a modern take on classic silhouettes: all you need to know about Milan Fashion Week men's A/W 2022
-
Discover these fashion brands at London Craft WeekDuring London Craft Week, fashion brands including Smythson, Bally and Serapian are hosting events across the capital
-
Nicholas Daley's multicultural roots celebrated in London
