Mood board: Jonathan Anderson carried the Eighties exuberance that he debuted at his namesake London label to Loewe for A/W, delivering an upbeat offering that was once again built around the house's leather expertise, albeit punctuated by his juxtapositions of soft hues and blinding brights that were a little bit Mad Science.
Scene setting: The creative director returned to the jutting concrete support slabs, rock walls and cement block stools of the UNESCO headquarter's paved entrance as his preferred Paris show space. The raw bedrock surrounds offered a cool, serene contrast to the collection's arresting colour and texture combinations.
Best in show: Anderson's fluid wide-legged pants were a big hit in hide last season and for winter he recut them in herringbone with cargo pockets scattered about. The material's graphic texture played nicely with his batwing buffalo bomber jackets, so soft that they were drawn into elastic waistbands. However, it was the modern line of his leather and patent lab coats that got our A-grade, simply sealed with double-breasted press studs. Metallic lamé pleating, smocking and geometric patterns also got into the glamour era's swing, and were set back with nude turtlenecks and suede boots that sported coloured speed stripes across the toes.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
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